Author Topic: Body and Motor Mount Lift  (Read 478 times)

Offline Horn

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Body and Motor Mount Lift
« on: December 02, 2017, 10:43:08 PM »
Been thinking about a 1- 1 1/4 body lift (no more) and a motor mount lift next summer together with some exterior frame cleanup and painting and replacing the factory gas tank skid.

Planning with thought of a suspension lift in the future to accommodate 33" tires.

This is what I think I know so far. Looking for any corrections or other thoughts before I go any further in planning and shopping this winter.

-  Seems like about 1 inch is the reasonable BL amount to get results without going too high.

- Doing a 1 inch body lift often seems to be part of a suspension lift.

- Doing a BL and a MML together should avoid having to relocate the fan shroud and avoid a transfer case drop.

- Doing both together will help with driveline angle for suspension lift later.

- Many of the gas tank skids I've seen that are complete replacements not covers over the original either require or at least recommend a 1 inch body lift to take advantage of increased clearance.

- I should get a little more access for frame painting.

- Unsure if will have to address transfer case linkage.

Online research so far seems to keep bringing me back to those points.

Thoughts?

Offline bigdaddymack51

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #1 on: December 03, 2017, 07:32:14 AM »
Most people doing a BL is that with the engine lift the bell housing and trans dont hit the floor. The other reason is an after market belly pan moves the trans/t-case up also , Hence the body lift. I believe if you do the  engine spacer you will have to raise the shroud or trim it to clearance the fan. Drive line angle vibration usually starts to happen after 2" of lift. Some get away with up to 3" before its bad. Find out from other TJs what worked for them . If its an LJ then you have more forgiveness with a lift. Gas tank skids come both Stock replacements or it lifts the tank one inch for clearance , hence the body lift.  The shift linkage is hinged , half from the body and half from the t-case. When you move either one its out of line and would have to be adjusted or it becomes harder to shift into different ranges. Sometimes involves cutting/grinding the floor around the shifter for clearance.  If 33s are the biggest tire you will want to run , than base your lift and mods around them. If you think down the road you may go bigger , think about whats involved to fit them . You also have to maybe figure on needing one or both drive shafts changed or lengthened.  No sense spending money twice. Now for the BIG decision ---- "Gear Ratio"  with bigger tires comes other issues not related to lift. Most TJS came with 3.07s  and with 33s you probably wont use high gear even on the highway or if you can , it wont do hills very good. Look at a tire / ratio chart and youll see how much the engine will struggle.  Its all connected somewhere, somehow ? Do everything at the same time and you can actually make the Jeep feel like you got a new or bigger engine. Hope any of this helps      FjR68

Offline Horn

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #2 on: December 03, 2017, 08:31:33 AM »
Most people doing a BL is that with the engine lift the bell housing and trans dont hit the floor. The other reason is an after market belly pan moves the trans/t-case up also , Hence the body lift. I believe if you do the  engine spacer you will have to raise the shroud or trim it to clearance the fan. Drive line angle vibration usually starts to happen after 2" of lift. Some get away with up to 3" before its bad. Find out from other TJs what worked for them . If its an LJ then you have more forgiveness with a lift. Gas tank skids come both Stock replacements or it lifts the tank one inch for clearance , hence the body lift.  The shift linkage is hinged , half from the body and half from the t-case. When you move either one its out of line and would have to be adjusted or it becomes harder to shift into different ranges. Sometimes involves cutting/grinding the floor around the shifter for clearance.  If 33s are the biggest tire you will want to run , than base your lift and mods around them. If you think down the road you may go bigger , think about whats involved to fit them . You also have to maybe figure on needing one or both drive shafts changed or lengthened.  No sense spending money twice. Now for the BIG decision ---- "Gear Ratio"  with bigger tires comes other issues not related to lift. Most TJS came with 3.07s  and with 33s you probably wont use high gear even on the highway or if you can , it wont do hills very good. Look at a tire / ratio chart and youll see how much the engine will struggle.  Its all connected somewhere, somehow ? Do everything at the same time and you can actually make the Jeep feel like you got a new or bigger engine. Hope any of this helps      FjR68

It does.  I started a lift thread earlier and have been slowly working on that as a long term plan.  I thought of just putting this as part of that thread.  I should probably just consolidated everything.  I'm thinking of the BL/MML as a possible stepping stone to that eventual 3-4 inch lift.  Something I could plan out and do next summer.  This year I've been working on adding/replacing skid plates and started going down the BL/MML road when I realized that to benefit from the extra clearance a replacement gas tank skid could gain I would want to include a body lift in the gas skid replacement.  You mentioned the aftermarket belly pan and I had done some reading about those too and saw the body lift recommendation.

It is an LJ, the gearing is 3.73 and have the NSG370 6 speed.

Offline XtraChrisP

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #3 on: December 03, 2017, 09:52:10 AM »
I’ve got an LJ, Clayton 5.5 long arm suspension, 1.25” JKS body lift and motor mount lift, which was put in to make up for the high clearance Clayton skid plates that I have on. It’s possible to put the high clearance skids on without the body lift but you have to hammer up the tub floor. I have zero vibration issues (outside of tires needing to be balanced and a slightly off-balance rear driveshaft.

I wouldn’t suggest more than a couple inches of body lift, but that’s just me
2005 LJ Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 5.5 Clayton Long Arm, 1.25" JKS body lift, 35" Mickey Thompson MTZ

Offline JeepinMaxx

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2017, 11:07:06 AM »
Another option is to go with MetalCloak fenders that can accommodate 33" tires with no suspension or body lift!

http://www.metalcloak.com/Game-Changing-Products-for-Jeep-TJ-Wrangler-s/34.htm
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Offline Horn

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2017, 11:30:35 AM »
I’ve got an LJ, Clayton 5.5 long arm suspension, 1.25” JKS body lift and motor mount lift, which was put in to make up for the high clearance Clayton skid plates that I have on. It’s possible to put the high clearance skids on without the body lift but you have to hammer up the tub floor. I have zero vibration issues (outside of tires needing to be balanced and a slightly off-balance rear driveshaft.

I wouldn’t suggest more than a couple inches of body lift, but that’s just me

I'm scoping out the short arm Clayton and Currie 4 inch with the idea of starting to accumulate parts as I can especially if they show up used.  Did you do anything to the drivetrain to accommodate the lift? I'm working on the assumption that I will need  to do a lot, then if I end up not having to because it's an LJ I'll be pleasantly surprised.

Offline Horn

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2017, 11:33:35 AM »
Another option is to go with MetalCloak fenders that can accommodate 33" tires with no suspension or body lift!

http://www.metalcloak.com/Game-Changing-Products-for-Jeep-TJ-Wrangler-s/34.htm

I'm shooting myself in the foot on this right now. I considered it, and often I'm function over form, but I like the way the TJ fenders look and I'm trying to stick with them.

Offline XtraChrisP

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #7 on: December 03, 2017, 12:04:38 PM »
Outside of a new rear driveshaft, no, nothing else to the drivetrain really. The Clayton stuff is all adjustable so you can set the pinion angle to whatever you want to adjust for the ride height
2005 LJ Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 5.5 Clayton Long Arm, 1.25" JKS body lift, 35" Mickey Thompson MTZ

Online joe98tj

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2017, 12:35:07 PM »
I would expect to have to adjust the transfer case linkage. I have wheeled with a lot of different people and that is one of the most common problems people who are not thorough overlooked. In talking with the guy at clayton when I picked up the skids, he said every lift is slightly different so instal everything and focus on the fan shroud qnd radiator last. You can use a motor mount lift to offset the body lift but with aftermarket skids your transfer case may now be mounted at a different height and if it does not raise with the motor mount lift your fan is now angled and could possibly rub on the shroud.

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Offline XtraChrisP

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2017, 04:35:35 PM »
I must have just been lucky I guess, no problems with transfer case linkage, and no fan clearance issues. I eventually converted to an all aluminum radiator and electric fan, but don’t remember having any problems before I did that. And I’ve never had the transfer case pop out or refuse to go in
2005 LJ Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon, 5.5 Clayton Long Arm, 1.25" JKS body lift, 35" Mickey Thompson MTZ

Offline Horn

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #10 on: December 03, 2017, 07:16:56 PM »
Anyone have any experience with M.O.R.E products? They make a 1 inch body lift that includes replacement body mounts. Mine aren't in bad shape looking at them but it seems like it would make sense to replace 12 year old pieces of rubber while the hardware is out. They also make a motor mount lift.
Right now those and the JKS are on the top of my list.

Online joe98tj

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #11 on: December 03, 2017, 07:21:06 PM »
You can also look into Brown Dog, have heard good things about their motor mounts.
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Offline Horn

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #12 on: December 03, 2017, 07:30:40 PM »
You can also look into Brown Dog, have heard good things about their motor mounts.

And I like how they allow you to select poly or rubber bushings and they are replaceable.  Seems like for my use and environment based on their recommendations I would be looking at rubber.

Online joe98tj

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #13 on: December 03, 2017, 07:32:13 PM »
My plan was to go with rubber as well
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Offline Johny Pornstash

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #14 on: December 03, 2017, 08:41:40 PM »
You’ll want to do a Novak cable shifter for the transfer case. Worth it’s weight in gold for trouble free transfer case shifting. A little bit of a pain in the ass, but I haven’t had an issue since. My “Z” shifter linkage bound up all the time after I did the BL and engine mount lift.
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Offline Mr. Easy

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #15 on: December 03, 2017, 09:20:42 PM »
I have the Browndog 1in mml. No complaints. Like Johny said, get the novak shifter. It's way better than the factory rube goldberg linkage.

Similar to Chris, I needed a body lift to fit the ultra high clearance skid that I am running.
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Offline Horn

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #16 on: December 03, 2017, 09:41:31 PM »
You’ll want to do a Novak cable shifter for the transfer case. Worth it’s weight in gold for trouble free transfer case shifting. A little bit of a pain in the ass, but I haven’t had an issue since. My “Z” shifter linkage bound up all the time after I did the BL and engine mount lift.

It was already on my "nice to have in the future" list.  I've already experienced enough balky transfer case shifts to want the Novak shifter.  I'll move it to the list for this project since it sounds like this would be the time to do it.

Offline JeepinMaxx

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #17 on: December 03, 2017, 10:19:53 PM »
I needed a body lift to fit the ultra high clearance skid that I am running.

What high clearance skid are you running?  My TJ has one that I don't know the MFG, but I'd like to lose the body mount lift since I have all the tire clearance I need with the MetalCloak set up...  If you are on 35's - when you get a chance, take a measurement from the pavement to the bottom of the belly skid plate.  I'm at around 22" now
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Offline Mr. Easy

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #18 on: December 03, 2017, 10:35:17 PM »
I needed a body lift to fit the ultra high clearance skid that I am running.

What high clearance skid are you running?  My TJ has one that I don't know the MFG, but I'd like to lose the body mount lift since I have all the tire clearance I need with the MetalCloak set up...  If you are on 35's - when you get a chance, take a measurement from the pavement to the bottom of the belly skid plate.  I'm at around 22" now

It's an undercover fab skid.
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Online joe98tj

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #19 on: December 03, 2017, 10:38:59 PM »
If youre looking for the ultimate access to painting the frame, 3 inch body lifts work great

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Offline Johny Pornstash

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #20 on: December 04, 2017, 03:55:42 PM »
So is mine, I have the UCF ultra high clearance 1” drop, it’s solid as a rock!
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Offline Right Wing Curmudgeon!!!

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #21 on: December 04, 2017, 08:11:32 PM »
JKS with stock mounts.  No problems.  Did with a 1 inch Daystar BL 12 years ago. :mrgreen:
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Offline The Navy Commander

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #22 on: December 04, 2017, 10:37:51 PM »
JKS with stock mounts.  No problems.  Did with a 1 inch Daystar BL 12 years ago. :mrgreen:

Ditto...but about 11 years ago...I'm gettin Old
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Online Gorilla_Skater

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #23 on: December 05, 2017, 01:10:35 AM »
I remember that Dave. That was at Detours. Donny did that cool air chisel trick on the fan nut.
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Offline Right Wing Curmudgeon!!!

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Re: Body and Motor Mount Lift
« Reply #24 on: December 05, 2017, 09:26:24 AM »
I remember that!  That was Dave's Jeep?  That was a pretty cool trick! :mrgreen:
03 Rubicon, 4 inch Clayton Short Arm Lift, Rokmen TT and Gas Tank Skids, TW DS front and Rear, 1 inch Daystar BL, 35x12.5-15 Cooper STTs, Warn 9.5ti winch.

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