R
RJ
Guest
I'm thinking about run 35's on my locked D35 with 4.88 gears. I know that the chances of breaking are good, but can't afford a Super 35 yet. Comments?
T
toyworx
Guest
Run it 'till it pukes! :smt078
J
Josh
Guest
I'd be worried about driving hard on the street with that setup. :lol:
D
/dev/null
Guest
I'm with Steve, invest a few bucks in spare shafts, 2 quarts 75w-90, and some RTV. Know how to remove a shaft. When it breaks, you'll know what the threshold was...
B
bandittyj
Guest
RJ...You could run 35's no problem. Might need a little more lift eventually. The tube fenders will help out a lot. You comming up this weekend??
R
RJ
Guest
I broke the spider gears when I had the stock gears on it. I'm really pretty easy on the throttle but I figured that the shafts wouldn't last too long. I do have a spare set of shafts, but don't really have much of a clue on how to change them out. Would a Chilton's book show a diagram of the setup?
I do plan on getting a Super 35 kit with an ARB unless I can set up a junkyard 8.8 for less.
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Gregg, I'm coming out Friday after work. If I'm not mistaken the M&G is Saturday. You think we'll be done in time to go?
I do plan on getting a Super 35 kit with an ARB unless I can set up a junkyard 8.8 for less.
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Gregg, I'm coming out Friday after work. If I'm not mistaken the M&G is Saturday. You think we'll be done in time to go?
X
xjmark
Guest
:smt023
J
jon
Guest
whats your price range for a 8.8?
R
RJ
Guest
Well, I found a new Yukon Super 35 w/ Detroit for $800 shipped. I'm assuming that my 4.88's will bolt right in. Setting those up should be about $350. So, I guess my budget would be $1150 for the 8.8 (but it needs to have 4.88's in it and a locker). Now that I think about this, that doesn't seem very resonable to get all that for $1150.
R
RJ
Guest
I just called him. He's a pretty nice guy. Here's what I found out:
To set up the gears and install the Super 35 in my rear housing it's $xxx
$800+xxx$=$1050 for a complete, installed Super 35.
To do an 8.8:
Need to find a hosing ($200-$300 I'm guessing)
Need 4.88 gears ($150)
Locker ($500 estimation for Detroit)
Install of gears, locker and new bearings) $xxx
Weld on new spring perches ($???)
New Driveshaft ($300)
Completed, installed 8.8 is looking at almost $2000.
Looks like the Super 35 kit is the way to go.
To set up the gears and install the Super 35 in my rear housing it's $xxx
$800+xxx$=$1050 for a complete, installed Super 35.
To do an 8.8:
Need to find a hosing ($200-$300 I'm guessing)
Need 4.88 gears ($150)
Locker ($500 estimation for Detroit)
Install of gears, locker and new bearings) $xxx
Weld on new spring perches ($???)
New Driveshaft ($300)
Completed, installed 8.8 is looking at almost $2000.
Looks like the Super 35 kit is the way to go.
J
Josh
Guest
You can use your existing driveshaft for the 8.8, only difference is that the 8.8 uses a flange instead of a yoke, so you just have to buy the adapter.RJ said:
For a 1310 yoke the Spicer p/n is 2-2-1379.
For a 1330 the Spicer p/n is 2-2-1369.
B
bandittyj
Guest
Save your pennies and go with the 8.8! Disk in the rear is soooo nice. That's what I was going to go with at first until I went full size thanks to Jeff. I think that your final price on the 8.8 is a little high though. We'll throw it around a little this weekend.
PS......Friday it's suppose to rain (we'll get as much done as possible)
Sat: Have to work till 11:30 See ya at noon!
Sun: Plan on finishing up!
PS......Friday it's suppose to rain (we'll get as much done as possible)
Sat: Have to work till 11:30 See ya at noon!
Sun: Plan on finishing up!
J
jon
Guest
There is a guy selling a complete 8.8 over on neow, dreamnevil.
Yes you will pay more, but for that price you get a MUCH stronger axle, and disc brakes.
the 35 is a joke. don't waste time on it.
Presonally I would do an isuzu 44 rear and waggy 44 front.
Yes you will pay more, but for that price you get a MUCH stronger axle, and disc brakes.
the 35 is a joke. don't waste time on it.
Presonally I would do an isuzu 44 rear and waggy 44 front.
C
CrzyFrlssJeep
Guest
I will agree that even the " Super Turdy-Five" is a joke.
It's just buying time for yourself that could have been spent elswhere.
Like on an 8.8 or Ford 9" or Dana 60 or whatever is in the budget...
It's just buying time for yourself that could have been spent elswhere.
Like on an 8.8 or Ford 9" or Dana 60 or whatever is in the budget...
R
RJ
Guest
People keep saying that I should do a swap, that the Super 35 kit isn't worth the money. Steve is the only person I've heard that has actually broken something. From what I read, it's a pretty bulletproof axle. I am trying to upgrade as cheeply as possible. At this point even $1500 is a good strech for me.
it is not just the axle shaft that blows, it differential housing that twists and tweaks. Yeah the shaft become unbreakable, but the shaft is stronger than the parts it sits in. I have heard many of stories about the housing tweaking and allowing just enough room for the pinion gear to separate from the ring gear and blow the hell out of it.
I once got stuck in New Jersey six flags for a week when I tried doing a burn out with my YJ and cracked the diff. They said they never saw that before but they were wrong. It took then 4 days to get a new one from DC... {under warranty.. :smt023 }
This is the main reason why they make the dana 35 axle truss...
When you start adding all this stuff up, then you really are throwing good money after bad. Even if you bought all the bells and whistles for a dana 35, you are still stuck with the failure prone 35, vs is you spend less, or even a few bucks more... the 8.8 is way worth that added cost...
My thoughts, keep it at 33" till you have the cash, or run the 35 and take it easy on the skinny pedal always know what your weak link will be...
Or upgrade to something you can stick with the life of the Jeep... 44 or 8.8 [/quote]
I once got stuck in New Jersey six flags for a week when I tried doing a burn out with my YJ and cracked the diff. They said they never saw that before but they were wrong. It took then 4 days to get a new one from DC... {under warranty.. :smt023 }
This is the main reason why they make the dana 35 axle truss...
Straight from Q-tech said:
When you start adding all this stuff up, then you really are throwing good money after bad. Even if you bought all the bells and whistles for a dana 35, you are still stuck with the failure prone 35, vs is you spend less, or even a few bucks more... the 8.8 is way worth that added cost...
My thoughts, keep it at 33" till you have the cash, or run the 35 and take it easy on the skinny pedal always know what your weak link will be...
Or upgrade to something you can stick with the life of the Jeep... 44 or 8.8 [/quote]
Z
Zaedock
Guest
Ahh, the old Dana 35 debate.
Here's the scoop. Many people rely on hear-say and rumor to make a determination of the Dana 35. Let's throw 33's and 35's on a 27 spline Dana35 and deem it a "bad" axle when you beat the snot out of it. The housing bends, the ring and pinion pops, etc.
The Dana35 tubes are the same thickness/diameter as a TJ Dana44
and the Dana35 pinion is actually bigger than a Dana44. The ring gear (according to Superior Axle) holds up well to 35" tires.
I've been running a Dana35 for a long time. My D35 has survived some of the hardest trails at Paragon(M trail, Rattler, etc...) and in the north east. I use Yukon 27 spline alloy shafts and run 33's. I also run a 4 popper and SM420. My next upgrade will include the Yukon 35 Kit and 35" BFG's.
If you have a lightweight rig with a 4 cylinder, upgrade the shafts and the D35 will survive. Sure, you can get a Ford 8.8 or even a Dana44, but you'll loose an inch of ground clearance and have more weight. Forget Dana 60's and 14 Bolts when running a 4 cylinder, they're way too heavy (and IMO not needed).
In conclusion, it is not my intension to put down the Ford8.8 or Dana44 because they're both excellent axles. I just want you to know that the Dana35 can be built to run with the best of them and isn't as bad as people think.
Here's the scoop. Many people rely on hear-say and rumor to make a determination of the Dana 35. Let's throw 33's and 35's on a 27 spline Dana35 and deem it a "bad" axle when you beat the snot out of it. The housing bends, the ring and pinion pops, etc.
The Dana35 tubes are the same thickness/diameter as a TJ Dana44
and the Dana35 pinion is actually bigger than a Dana44. The ring gear (according to Superior Axle) holds up well to 35" tires.
I've been running a Dana35 for a long time. My D35 has survived some of the hardest trails at Paragon(M trail, Rattler, etc...) and in the north east. I use Yukon 27 spline alloy shafts and run 33's. I also run a 4 popper and SM420. My next upgrade will include the Yukon 35 Kit and 35" BFG's.
If you have a lightweight rig with a 4 cylinder, upgrade the shafts and the D35 will survive. Sure, you can get a Ford 8.8 or even a Dana44, but you'll loose an inch of ground clearance and have more weight. Forget Dana 60's and 14 Bolts when running a 4 cylinder, they're way too heavy (and IMO not needed).
In conclusion, it is not my intension to put down the Ford8.8 or Dana44 because they're both excellent axles. I just want you to know that the Dana35 can be built to run with the best of them and isn't as bad as people think.
No one is saying you can’t build a Dana 35, and even without building, you can also fair well. I ran 35" MT for a year and never had a problem. However, I also blew a shaft with 31's and later cracked a housing on the road with hard abuse.
There are people that run the 35 for ever and never have any problems, but there are far more that do. Granted the 4cyl will help the cause, but when you lock it and wheel it, it will always be your weak link. The unfunny part is when I guy loads up a 35, and pops it on the trail, then has no spares. Always a makes for a fun day... :wink:
As for specs, yeah the tubes are the same mil thickness, but the other specs are what make is a value...
Dana 44 vs Dana 35 vs 8.8
Shaft Diameter
Dana 44: 1.31
Dana 35: 1.16
8.8 : 1.32
Spline Count
Dana 44: 30
Dana 35: 27
8.8 : 31
Ring gear Diameter
Dana 44: 8.5
Dana 35: 7.56
8.8 : 8.8 (go figure :lol: )
Tube Size (very important)
Dana 44 : 2.75 x .500
Dana 35 : 2.50 x .500
8.8 : 3.25 x ?
The Great Dana Debate will never end so the best advice is to wheel and if you break, fix or upgrade.
I just agree with Steve, spend the money on a 35 or spend it on a axle that you will not regret...
There are people that run the 35 for ever and never have any problems, but there are far more that do. Granted the 4cyl will help the cause, but when you lock it and wheel it, it will always be your weak link. The unfunny part is when I guy loads up a 35, and pops it on the trail, then has no spares. Always a makes for a fun day... :wink:
As for specs, yeah the tubes are the same mil thickness, but the other specs are what make is a value...
Dana 44 vs Dana 35 vs 8.8
Shaft Diameter
Dana 44: 1.31
Dana 35: 1.16
8.8 : 1.32
Spline Count
Dana 44: 30
Dana 35: 27
8.8 : 31
Ring gear Diameter
Dana 44: 8.5
Dana 35: 7.56
8.8 : 8.8 (go figure :lol: )
Tube Size (very important)
Dana 44 : 2.75 x .500
Dana 35 : 2.50 x .500
8.8 : 3.25 x ?
The Great Dana Debate will never end so the best advice is to wheel and if you break, fix or upgrade.
I just agree with Steve, spend the money on a 35 or spend it on a axle that you will not regret...
J
jon
Guest
Just a note on the spare axle shaft thing.
The super 35 kit uses axle shafts with a different spline than stock. This means you can't use a stocker as a spare, and you have to buy another expensive shaft, while with the dana 44 or 8.8 you can get a spare shaft for much cheaper.
The super 35 kit uses axle shafts with a different spline than stock. This means you can't use a stocker as a spare, and you have to buy another expensive shaft, while with the dana 44 or 8.8 you can get a spare shaft for much cheaper.
