changing the oil in a dana 35

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will i finally check the oil in the rear end and its grey. so i have never change the oil before in a rear end. what are the step to doing this.


thanks for any help
 
here's a good Write Up with Pics although I think he went a little overboard with the RTV, most of that will just squeeze out, I lay a bead a little thicker than a pencil and make circles around each bolt hole, then let it set up for about 5 minutes before bolting it on. 8)
 
thanks for the info but one more question in the write up it says"Torque the bolts to spec" what are the spec on a dana 35
 
"Goodntite" or the torque of two grunts. nah, better make that one and a half grunts. Tighten it till it gets loose, then back it off a half turn. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
 
Do what I did...Go to quick lube, they will suck out the bad, flush with new oil and then top off. Think it was like $25.
Figure time and materials to do it yourself...it just didn't add up for me.
 
Doing the front was a lot easier for me then doing the rear. For RTV I used the blue permatex and 80-90W synthetic gear lube by valvoline which all can be had at autozone. All i did was unbolt the diff cover but left the very top bolt on (so you can meter the oil coming out and the cover doesnt just fall on you), Bang the cover from side to side to break the seal of the old silicone. After you break the seal, I just used a small putty knife to pry the cover off the diff housing. I removed the bolt on top of the diff cover that I had left on to meter the oil. Scrape the old gasket off the housing and the cover but leave some paper towels in the diff housing to protects th gears from all the crap falling in. After that I sprayed the inside of the diff cover with some break cleaner and then sprayed some brake cleaner on a paper towel and went around the hole housing. I put a heavy thick bead of RTV around the cover and bolt it up immediately and hand tighten all the nuts. I then go around to each nut and toque them down to 30 ft pounds (thats what the FSM calls for)...After that I proceeded to wash my hands, grab a slice of pizza, and a beer and sit back and relax :drink:
 
I forgot to mention....on reaching the very top 3 bolts can be a pain in the arse with a torque wrench...at least the one I got...so I just jacked up the frame on the side till the gas tank was out of my way :cheers2:
 
I used the DANA 35 DIFFERENTIAL GASKET LUBELOCKER. It is an actual gasket with o-ring built in - no RTV! It seals great and can be re-used (good if you are on the trail!) $16 buck, no waiting for RTV to dry. Downside is you have to torque it down in a pattern. 25 ft/lbs.
p40098.JPG

http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sgin0101.exe?T1=52416+103&UREQA=1&UREQB=2&UREQC=3&UREQD=4&FNM=00&UID=2005090822014495
 
The bolts are 3/8 coarse thread I think. Max torque on a 3/8 bolt is 18 ft-lbs for low grade, 31 ft-lbs for grade 5. If it's a metric 10mm thread than max torque for a 8.8 bolt is 20-29 ft-lbs.

Chiltons books usualy have a chart in them for max torque vs grade and bolt size.

In a pinch keep it below the max torque of the fastener.

With thick gaskets, better not get any where near max torque. A stubby socket driver is good as you can't over torque easily with one.
 
I use Right Stuff and crank the bolts down tight. It could be a bear to remove the covers later, but you will not have a leak. I use a heavy duty gasket scraper to break them loose. Ask Moose about this stuff at Paragon, He'll tell ya how good it is. :wink:
 
Ive heard both bad and good from the lube locker gasket....I assume the people I hear the bad from arent using a torque wrench :disagree:


hey mark...where do you buy "right stuff"? Does autozone or AAP cary it?
 
I'm plan on changing out the fluids in the Jeep tomorrow as well.
I have 2 quick questions thought.

1. How can I remove the Bling :bling: from that nice new shine Diff Cover I was so lucky to win at the last M&G. Will a little steel wool work, or is there a primer?

2. The drain plug is a little higher on this cover then the stock D30 cover. All the write-ups say to fill the diff until the gear lube starts to come out of the drain, since this drain is higher does that still apply? I don’t want to overfill it.
 
Most auto parts stores should have Right Stuff in stock. I get mine from Dalena auto parts in New Britain.
 
Heres the steps I would do in changing the oil on a dana 35.

Remove dana 35.

install 8.8, Dana 44, Dana 60, etc. with new oil.

:twisted:
 
Yeah, I was being serious. exactly :roll:

its a joke.

In actuality I have never had aproblem with a dana 35 yet. Just as long as you know its limits, and try to wheel following those limits you hsould be fine.

I just like dana 44s :twisted:
 
In actuality there will be a nice rightup coming out on all the various crap you need to do to build up some 44s. :lol:
 
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