Disk break conversion. Thoughts-Opinions needed.

tiggertj

New member
Hi folks,

I’ve been thinking about doing a disk break conversion for the rear axle but I’m not sure it’s going to really help. With the 4:56 gears the torque of the drive line is so intense in 4 low that the breaks are barely able to hold the driveline back.  Going down hill it is even worse especially with the 3 speed auto because there is no help from the engine to slow the drive line down.
Here is the kit I’ve been looking at. This is the cheapest price I could find and it has free shipping.

http://northridge4x4.com/products.php?id=677

I’ve been trying to read thru the install instructions but it all seems like alien speak to me.
Here is the pdf link.

http://www.teraflx.com/installsheets/DBK_install.pdf

It seems to me I will have to replace the hard lines on the axle.
Hodgie at work also noted that the kit comes with bango bolts and he said they kind of suck. I wouldn’t know the difference but he’s a big time gear head so I’ll take his word that they are not that great.
It seems to me I will have to replace the hard lines on the axle too.

25. Connect the hard brake line to the soft brake lines, and bleed the brakes. Start with the passenger side first, then proceed to the driver’s side. Note: You will need to purchase shorter metal brake lines from an automotive parts supplier.

Notice it make no reference to how short the lines need to be.
Also there is no mention of having to change anything at the master cylinder or at the TJ’s combination valve.
Stu has a write up on swapping in  the combination valve from  a ZJ. But he never mentions if it really made any difference.
Here is his write up.
http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/d44brake/bc-6.htm.

Oh well…those are my thoughts.

Here are a couple more links that I’ve found to do things on the cheap.

http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/d35disc/d35-1.htm


http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=415635&page=1&pp=20

Any thoughts you may have would be appreciated. Gotta run to work now! Have a great day!

T.
 
Brake hard line replacement is the easy part - go to local parts store, select length of line needed with correct ends, bend to fit by hand be sure to avoid kinks.

side benefit of the disk swap is how easy it is to remove all the mud after a run through the local mud pit. Lot easier to hose off disks than remove drums to get all the mud out. Also pads are a lot easie/fasterr to replace on disks.
 
sounds good............i wanna get an 8.8 so i get discs for free :mrgreen:
 
Will you have to go with a larger Master Cylider for the upgrade?
I looked into the disc conversion when I installed my d44. The kit and parts were what I thought to be real expensive. I rebiult the drum brakes for 1/4 the price and installed a larger mc. The YJ stops surprisingly well now.
 
Tina, that is actually a good kit, I have done a ton of research on it.  The best prices I found were 4x4Group buys and Bob Suppee.

As for the question about Banjo bolts, they are needed.  Being it is a caliper, you have to at least have a small section of flexible hose.  So when you change the pads or remove the caliper, you can swing it out of the way.  The banjo bolt is a hollow bolt, exactly the same as the front.  It is the bolt that goes though the line into the caliper and still lets fluid go through... There is nothing wrong with them.  They have been the only thing used for years...    Just think of all the front brakes that have them,,, yours do....

As for better stopping, if you have the money, hell year disc brakes are great, I am tired of popping my rear drums only to find a solid packed mud pie.
 
Used-TJ said:
Brake hard line replacement is the easy part - go to local parts store, select length of line needed with correct ends, bend to fit by hand be sure to avoid kinks.

side benefit of the disk swap is how easy it is to remove all the mud after a run through the local mud pit. Lot easier to hose off disks than remove drums to get all the mud out. Also pads are a lot easie/fasterr to replace on disks.

Is it possible to just cut back the hard line and reflare the end?
 
Rubi04TJ said:
Go the easy route and do a simple ZJ conversion, all the parts can be had at the Junkyard cheap.

Zack from what I understand the tera kit is really just the ZJ stuff repackaged. The callipers are supposedly made by the same company that makes them for ford.
I would do the junkyard thing but the guys always look at me like my head is gonna pop off or something.  :grinyes: I stopped in at one place in Tolland and the old coot working there made a nasty sexual remark and basically ignored me afterwords. Not a pleasant experience.
 
As for zj conversion, Smith's has a lot of jeep parts out in franklin.

It's much easier to replace the lines.  The lines are only going to be a few bucks a side.  Just some universal lines hand bent to fit.
 
garysoupy said:
Will you have to go with a larger Master Cylider for the upgrade?
I looked into the disc conversion when I installed my d44. The kit and parts were what I thought to be real expensive. I rebiult the drum brakes for 1/4 the price and installed a larger mc. The YJ stops surprisingly well now.

Which master Cylinder did you upgrade to? Was it a easy swap or did you need to fab stuff to make it fit?
 
Tina, if you get me a total list of the zj parts needed I will go to the jy and pull the stuff or find out were stuff is.  I just need to know what parts and years.  I love going to JY's, ohhhh soo much fun.  Also with hard brake line get the teflon coated stuff.  Easy to bend, plus you can unbend it if ya mess up and not worry about it breaking there like the other flimsy stuff.  Bull.
 
cjshloman said:
Tina, if you get me a total list of the zj parts needed I will go to the jy and pull the stuff or find out were stuff is.  I just need to know what parts and years.  I love going to JY's, ohhhh soo much fun.  Also with hard brake line get the teflon coated stuff.   Easy to bend, plus you can unbend it if ya mess up and not worry about it breaking there like the other flimsy stuff.  Bull.

Thanks Bull,

I'll work on the parts list tonight. I've gotta run to make dinner now but I should have the list by morning.
T.
 
Steve's right I shouldn't waste any more cash on the turdy 5. But I need to do something to improve braking power.

T.
 
Bull,

I've tried to put a parts list together for you. But it becomes kind of confusing with info being mixed between the 44 and the 8.8.

Basically 03 Tj's and up come with the option of disk breaks. So if you can find a C-clip TJ with disks breaks that would be the best choice. I would think if you took everything off the 03 and up TJ it would work. Probably even the rear proportion valve and the one at the master cylinder.

For the ZJ parts

Look for a 96 to 98 ZJ with a C clip 35.

d35bc-1.jpg


here is a picture of everything needed.



T.
 
Having done this with an xj this last summer, there is less work to do this on a d 35 as the parts are designed to fit from the get - go - there's a little work to do to make it fi other axles (minor) Anyway I chose to buy new parts, and have a list of them...........

ZJ parts needed:



Backing Plate (Left) - Part# 4762129

Backing Plate (Right) - Part# 4762128

Brake Rotor (2) - Part# 52008184

Parking Brake Lever Boot (2) Part# 4762124

Banjo Bolt (2) - Part# J4006700

Brake Caliper (Left) - Part# 4762103

Brake Caliper (Right) - Part# 4762102

Caliper Bushing (4) - Part# 4762106

Caliper Sleeve (4) - Part# 4762105

Brake Caliper Bolts (4) - Part# 5253000

Brake Hose Washer (4) - Part# J3237672

Caliper Mounting Bracket (Left) - Part# 4796343

Caliper Mounting Bracket (Right) - Part# 4796342

Flex Line (Left) - Part# 52008663

Flex Line (Right) - Part# 52008662

Proportioning Valve - Part# 52009061AB

Parking Brake Lever (Slide) - Part# 4762132

Parking Brake Lever (Left) - Part# 4762130

Parking Brake Lever (Right) - Part# 4762131


Parking Brake Adjusting Nut (2) - Part# 4762118

Parking Brake Adjusting Screw (2) - Part# 4762120

Parking Brake Adjusting Socket (2) - Part# 4762115

Parking Brake Hold Down Clip (4) - Part# 4762125

Parking Brake Hold Down Pin (4) - Part# 4762126

Parking Brake Spring 2 (Lower) - Part# 4762116

Parking Brake Spring 2 (Upper) - Part# 4762127

Rear Disc Brake Pads - Part# 4883717AA

Parking Brake Shoes - Part# 4796337

I found that I did not have to change out my master cylinder or proportioning valve, however, I porobably will swap the xj prop valve for a zj prop valve this spring when I have time.
This is a great time to completely flush out your brake system, metal hard lines are very cheap, and I wouldnt re-use what is on your jeep, even though I know some people have done that without problems.

Good luck, this is a mod you wont regret even if you are just polishing a dturdy5 ;-)
 
tiggertj said:
garysoupy said:
Will you have to go with a larger Master Cylider for the upgrade?
I looked into the disc conversion when I installed my d44. The kit and parts were what I thought to be real expensive. I rebiult the drum brakes for 1/4 the price and installed a larger mc. The YJ stops surprisingly well now.

Which master Cylinder did you upgrade to? Was it a easy swap or did you need to fab stuff to make it fit?

Since I have a YJ, my mc is most likely different. The mc I used is for a '78 Mecury Marquis w/ power brakes. This is a bolt on replacement for the YJ. You only have to buy some adapters for the brake lines. The cost is like $17 with a $1 core for the rebuilt mc.
 
If your concerned with upgrading the rear brakes on an axle you might well get rid of.  Then don't do it.  Upgrade the front brakes instead.  They will make a bigger difference anyways.  Cruising around the internet I've seen a few methods.  More work but better results.

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/booster/

These give you better brakes too.  Your front axle is far harder to upgrade then the rear so put your brake improvements where they are likely to stay.
 
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