Exhaust man cracked

cjshloman

New member
My exhaust manifold is cracked where 2 of the pipes are welded together. Found out tonite after doing a tune up on it. Should I just buy a header for it? Prob cheaper than buying a stock replacement....any input. Thanks, Bull. Oh yeah I got a 4.0L.
 
you don't have to tell us you have a 4.0 when you already told us it had a crack.. You should have seen that one coming. :wink:

Do a Borla Header, although Banks is nice, it does not come with the down pipe and Borla has the million mile warranty.

Quote from JU (http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=563575)

Though the Banks design does qualify as a header because of the collectors, it's primary intent is to replace the stock, crack-proned manifold with a well-made, long-lived, trouble free component. To that end, it's quite successful. However, don't expect the power gains you'll get from the Leach header -- Its true long-tubed design is superior in terms of power gains to a shorty such as the Banks or Thorley.

Were it not for the cracking problems that I've seen with Borla, I'd recommend it over the Banks as well if optimum power is your goal. It's 16 gauge steel whereas the Leach header is 14 gauge, and the flanges are 3/8" vs 1/2". They do have a lifetime warranty though, so maybe it's worth a shot. I don't personally carry Borla's headers but if you can't justify spending the money for the Leach, maybe you want to give it a shot.

The Banks is a good option for highly lifted ZJs or XJs, when interference with the front driveshaft yoke can be an issue with long-tubed headers. Also, they're the only acceptable option for Jeeps with precats, assuming you don't want to remove them. I've sold a couple of them for these applications and, as I said, they are beautifully made.
 
I put a borla on my jeep. It works nice. The flange needed machining to flatten it when I got it though. The flange had deformed around each tube. I used a large file and flattened it.
(I wouldn't recomend doing that though). It would have sealed out of the box but machining it will give a much better shot at a long gasket life.

I'd get another before any other brand though.

They do rust a little, just not as fast as a cheap one and only a little light rust after 30k miles and a lot of winter usage (3 years). including a trip to quebec in february.

With the amount of work it takes to change, Don't go cheap!
 
Forgot to mention, it is the right flange thickness so stock bolts still work. Any thicker and they won't. Plus stainless stell lasts longer at high temp then steel so it can be thinner and last longer. Mine has dents from my axle hitting it and it still hasn't cracked.
 
Couldn't reweld mine, 4 of the tubes had cracked all the way around and one had ~4 repairs already. Looked like a mountain of booger welds.
 
I did a lot of research before buying a header - and all roads pointed to Borla! it's not the least expensive, but it is well made and comes with the head pipe. Takes a beating too. Also if you wan't to stick with stock, I have the stock manifold with one small crack - easily fixed - and free...
 
Borla makes awesome headers,

I dislike their cat back though, while they work well the material is way to thin. I have welded 2 back together before

and the million mile warrenty doesn't include being bashed on rocks. :wink:
 
Ill prob go borla or banks. I think the banks does come with the down pipe, its the earlier years that dont....Now I gotta look. Bull.
 
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