Help from YJ owners

[Zaedock]

Hey YJ folks,
I bent my tie rod during our run at The Farm and was wondering if someone with a front Dana30 could run outside and measure from zerk to zerk on each tie rod and let me know what you get.

Call it...the poor/lazy man's alignment.

Thanks a bunch.

 

[CJKarl]

Wife took the jeep tonight. :smt102

 

[toyworx]

Joe,

Every front end is a little bit different. The trick is to measure the rim-to-rim directly in front of the axle, and then again directly behind the axle (180 from the front side). You want the front to be no more than a 1/4" longer (wider) than the rear. This gives you about 1/8" toe out per wheel.

If you toe it IN (thge front side is closer than the rear side) it will get twitchy on you going down the road, and the initial turn-in will be very quick. Not good on a 93" wheelbase.

Make sure the steering wheel is centered so the ackerman doesn't throw off your readings.

 

[xjmark]

Hmmm. :-k I've always set mine to 1/8" total toe-in using the lugs of the tires as measuring point and have had good results every time.
I came up with 51 5/8" to the center of the grease zerks on my XJ.

 

[Erik S.]

I'm with XJMark. Set for Toe-In. No more than 1/4". This is what dad told me too. Here's why; when you put the vehicle in motion you will shift weight, usually to the rear, this will pick up the front end of the vehicle, and cause the toe to come out some, closer to an even alignment.

Go with Toe-in, no more than 1/4"


Erik

 

[CrzyFrlssJeep]

Just for basic reference.

Toe out - for FWD because the power tranfers the wheels inward

Toe in - for RWD or 4WD vehicles, because the wheels work their way outward during road travel.


This link will help you understand it all.

www.cowtownjeeps.com/tech/align.htm

 

[toyworx]

I'm with XJMark. Set for Toe-In. No more than 1/4". This is what dad told me too. Here's why; when you put the vehicle in motion you will shift weight, usually to the rear, this will pick up the front end of the vehicle, and cause the toe to come out some, closer to an even alignment.

Go with Toe-in, no more than 1/4"


Erik

This is sometimes the case on independent front suspension vehicles. It's the same net effect that causes bump steer on a straight axle rig with too much drag link angle.

On a straight axle rig, the toe is fixed regardless of front end travel. The tie rod goes knuckle to knuckle. You can rip the whole front axle out ans still have the toe setting correct.

Mark, you've got a lot more wheelbase. On a 93 inch rig, it'll get twitchy when toed in.

 

[Marty]

.

opcorn: opcorn: opcorn: opcorn: opcorn: :-k

.

 

[jon]

Not to sound like a dick but you are completely off base.

You want toe in. Toe in helps in the vehiceles ability to track, or go in a straight line. It is also required to get a correct ackerman angle for your steering. With front wheel drive cars, theyare toed ot, but very very slightly, as under power they toe themselves in.

this is very basic suspension and steering design

 

[CrzyFrlssJeep]

Jon, Mark, and I seem to have the most correct answers.

Besides, ever since I learned "the poor man's alignment" I've never paid anyone to do my alignment.

Tape measure is a great tool for this, that and a big pipe wrench if needed as well as an angle finder gauge for setting the caster angle.

 

[xjmark]

:smt021 I'll be... -------------------------> opcorn: :drink: over here watching on the sidelines with Marty for this one. Be nice.

 

[CrzyFrlssJeep]

:smt021 I'll be -----------------------------------> opcorn: :drink: over here watching on the sidelines with marty. Be nice.

Me too... :smt021 opcorn: :smt033

 

[jon]

Steve same for YJs.

crzyfrlssjeep. How do you adjust caster with a pipe wrench? The only way to adjust caster on a solid axle that that I know of is adjustable control arms (link suspension), shims (leaf spring), or cut em off and re-weld em. all but the last one affect your pinion angle as well though.

 

[Zaedock]

Guys!!! Guys!!!! All I need is a number....(Thanks xjmark!)

I don't have time to pull the wheels and stuff. Barely had time to pull the YJ on the trailer and come-along the tie rod to the trailer cross member.
All front ends are a little different, but not enough to make a big difference here. I am a former ASE certified mechanic who has done countless alignments. Besides, my YJ only see's about 1500 miles of use a year (unfortunately) and the lift and 33's cause more handling problems than a 1/4" of toe. It's not a sports car ya know!!!

HAHA The toe-in/toe-out argument!!!
Bias tires should have some toe-in. Radials typically like 0-1/8" max.
I usually shoot as close to zero as possible.
Factory toe settings usually suck (from experience) and have too great a margin for error. Most old timer Techs "learn" what's best for each body style. That's the way the old guys taught me. I've never had a customer complaint with one of my alignments :up:

Also, I saw that Cow town alignment link. Not bad, except that TJ's and XJ's toe settings change when you lift them. YJ's do not. Only the steering wheel get's messed up.

Hey Marty, do you have any of that Butter-Flavored PopCorn????

 

[toyworx]

Few corrections....

1) I keep forgetting that TJ's run that funky draglink/tie rod combo thingy that will actually effect toe-in when lifting the rig. So my blanket stetment about straight axle rigs would only apply to those running the older style tie rod that runs knuckle to knuckle with a seperate drag link going to the pitman arm.

2) Toe-In/Toe-Out.....i guess i've been spending too much time on my sled chassis lately..... :smt017.......