New Project CJ

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/dev/null

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I'm finally back and got a new project CJ for FREE! And it runs...

80-something CJ, 360, auto tranny (said it came out of a Waggy with the 360), Dana 300, fiberglass tub. It runs and came with a decent plow setup, which I'll be selling as soon as I can get it off the frame (probably sometime in October).

Plans: Keep engine- tranny- t-case, replace frame (rotted) with new one, headers & new exhaust, spring over, full width D60 front & 14 bolt rear (or D60, whichever comes first), 3/4 ton driveshafts, hi-steer with ram, 38s, all new cage, fuel cell in back, deeper gears in the axles with detroits, and maybe TeraLow 4:1 for the D300.

It'll never see pavement, but I have the title, too!

cj.jpg


cj2.jpg
 
The fiberglass tub was really well done. The interior is pretty nice, too.

It runs, but I see no air filter. No leaking oil. I figure I'll build off a new frame and start a rolling chassis, then transplant the motor, tranny, and driveline, then move over the tub. The cage is going to take some work to bring it down to the frame, but not too bad.

I still haven't gotten a good look at the tranny- what are the common Waggy autos?
 
What would be better to work with- YJ or CJ frame? Should I be thinking about doing any work now to stretch the wheelbase? I want to run 38s with full width axles, think the stock geometry (leaf sprung) will be adequete?
 
/dev/null said:
What would be better to work with- YJ or CJ frame? Should I be thinking about doing any work now to stretch the wheelbase? I want to run 38s with full width axles, think the stock geometry (leaf sprung) will be adequete?

With CJ frame you will have to outboard the springs, With a YJ frame I dont think you do. If you want to extend your wheelbase at the same time you could use different spring combinations. Waggoneer springs, you could move the axle 2" XJ/dakota/durango springs will move it 6" and I believe F150 springs will move it about 8".

You could get away with moving the front axle 2" forward with out haveing to do any steering modifications. Any thing else you will either need to move your steering box, or get something like a chevy astro van steering box, which has the pitman arm mounted the opposite way. ALl the springs mentiond above, instock form, give 2-3" of lift. And of course you could by lift springs as well. But you will be able to clear 38s with any of those spring choices. With a little bit of cutting you could fit up to a 42" tire.

As far as teh Transmission it is probably either a TF727, or a TH400. The 400 would have teh quadrajunk T-case on it, which would have both front and rear offset.

-Paul
 
second vote on the YJ.
not outboarding sping mounts in nice, and you are more like to find a usable one.

better shackle hanger as well, but if you move the axles that doesn't matter
 
If you have to get a new frame I would also have to suggest YJ. This saves a lot of front spring modifications due to the full width axles. The springs on a CJ frame will have to be moved outboard to run full width and a YJ will remain in the same position. See LIMPINGALONG's post...running full width in his CJ
 
Wow, thanks for all the input. I'll probably start a rolling chassis in the spring.

I take it back, there is some leaking somewhere (so what). Least of my concerns right now.

cj3.jpg
 
Well, put it this way- I'm about 1/2 way through building the barn this thing is going to live in. If I can finish it before work has another meltdown or it gets too cold, then I'll be looking for a frame.
 
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