pulling axle tubes
- Thread starter beaker
- Start date
Y
Yagottawanna
Guest
Unless ya got a plasma cutter yep. :mrgreen:
Are you pulling the tube out of the center section or the inner c's on a front. If is out of the center section, I think you'll have the best luck drilling out the welds, if it on the inner c's on the front axle then a angle grinder work best, then get a big sledge hammer and hit it, you'll see the seam.
beaker
Active member
Pulling the tubes out of the center section. I have a ford dana 44 front axle that has tubes I can't shorten. They have those radius arm mounts that can't be cut off as they are the tube.
So I'm going to pull the tubes from a GM 10 bolt (same dia) or a Jeep dana 44 both of which I have, shorten and install into the ford center section. Depending on what lengths I need I may not have to pull any tubes. If you don't want the tubes they can be cut nearly flush then split with a sawzall and pulled out.
It's going to be ~61.5" wide when I'm done. Which is a match for the AMC 20 I just picked up. The 10 bolt donating matching knuckles in a bolt pattern matching the AMC 20.
Or If I get lazy, slap the GM knuckles on the jeep center and run a 64" wide front low pinion with a 61.5" wide rear.
So I'm going to pull the tubes from a GM 10 bolt (same dia) or a Jeep dana 44 both of which I have, shorten and install into the ford center section. Depending on what lengths I need I may not have to pull any tubes. If you don't want the tubes they can be cut nearly flush then split with a sawzall and pulled out.
It's going to be ~61.5" wide when I'm done. Which is a match for the AMC 20 I just picked up. The 10 bolt donating matching knuckles in a bolt pattern matching the AMC 20.
Or If I get lazy, slap the GM knuckles on the jeep center and run a 64" wide front low pinion with a 61.5" wide rear.
A
aafish
Guest
?????? Sounds like an awful lot of work--by the way,don't you want the fronts to be wider than the rear for better driving and tracking?
beaker
Active member
Got a large propane torch / garage heater. Going to get the center nice and hot. Pack the tube in dry ice and slid it in and let everything equalize and hold it tight.
Sufficient temperature differential can make a press fit a loose fit. Thus no press needed.
Well that's the theory. I'll have to tell you how it goes.
Sufficient temperature differential can make a press fit a loose fit. Thus no press needed.
Well that's the theory. I'll have to tell you how it goes.
beaker
Active member
A 300 deg F temperature differential should reduce the fit by 0.010. Since press fits are only ~.001-.003 typically. Heating one part and cooling the other should work nicely.
Though actual results may not be as good.
I'm more concerned about getting the old tubes out.
Theoretically they should drop in.
Though actual results may not be as good.
I'm more concerned about getting the old tubes out.
Theoretically they should drop in.
ctaxle
New member
ive never done it, but, will heating up the cast center be a good thing? also i bet you only get 1 chance to put it together :mrgreen:. pet i am interested in how it will work. as far as removing the knuckles a machine with a gap lathe should be able to turn down the old welds then you hammer off. pete
P
petey
Guest
for all that work why not just run a waggy dana 44? Or you doing all that work so you can say that you have a high pinion dana 44. I doubt it is going to be a flex monster or you have 24" of lift and running loader tires.
J
jon
Guest
ummm just checking but where did you get the 0.010"? Did you actually run the numbers? or just find that online.
Pop out the welds with what you may have handy, torch, drill. Remove the guts first of course. The take a Porta power or small bottle jack inside the pig with a plate smaller diameter than your tube and press out. If it's stubborn cut the tube at the Pig and sawzall thru the tube to split the tube in half. Should be able to do a side in a hour.
Jeff
Jeff
J
jon
Guest
cool, just wanted to double check.
