Rear Drive Shaft ?

[Rubie Nubie]

Well after replacing the shovel trannie skid with one from Jeepmedic
I now have a moderate problem with the rear drive shaft binding,.
Anyone have possible solutions? I know I'm going to have to get
a set of adjustable upper control arms, will I have to reduce/replace
the the rear shaft also? If so what/who's type should I look into?
Any advise would be appreciated...thanks,
Dave

 

[massxj]

:worthless:

im not a tj guy but..... i would think you can get away with an engine lift. adj. uppers would be better. not sure where/how its binding. a lil more info or pics would help

 

[Rubie Nubie]

It isn't a vibe, If you roll the jeep a few feet, the rear lower knuckle, in front of the
rear axle binds and the jeep actually flexes downward. It was bad enough for me to realize this
was going to be a problem before I actually took it out for a test drive. And I'm a Noob so
it must be bad,Here are a few pic's. I'll read up on the link you sent, thanks massxj and Steve.

 

[MasterDrazhar]

Looks to me like the ears are hitting eachother. That would be because your angles are way too high.

You may need to do a couple things... Adjustable uppers in the rear AND an engine lift.

The engine lift shouldn't hurt you too much in the front, but check the angles before you put the lift in.

You have a Rubi so you don't have the SYE as an option. but you could convert the flange to a standard cv type shaft, they make a kit for that. It would essentially lengthen your rear shaft maybe a couple inches.... Bruce looked into it so he may have some info.

.

 

[Rubie Nubie]

Looking like a Woods 1350 rear shaft, Will a set of adjustable control arms help with
the binding at the diffrential?

 

[MasterDrazhar]

yes. But do you have a double CV shaft? Or is that what the 1350 will be?

If not I believe you have to keep the diff and transfer case output on parallel planes

 

[Rubie Nubie]

Actually, after speaking to both Tom Woods and Jason at 4X4 Groupbuy, It looks like a set of adjustable
control arms, might as well get fronts and back, and a motor lift for now, see if that helps, If not
Tom suggested a 1350 double cardan shaft. Does anyone have any other ideas, suggestions or
comments? Right now I've put the shovel back on til I can afford to do this right.... Sorry Jeff...I
promise it's yours once I get it off for good..... p.s we'll make it fit....


Thanks Steve and Jeff

 

[cjshloman]

interested in your CA if you buy new ones. Bull.

 

[Rubie Nubie]

You got them Bull

 

[Rubie Nubie]

Steve,
Sorry, I'm such the nOOb, So If I just rotate the rear axle
up and back, but stay less than 15 degrees then I will still burn out the
U joints? Now the Engine lift will help tilt the Transmission downward a
little also correct?

 

[MasterDrazhar]

As long as you keep the rear pinion angle parallel to the transfercase output and the drive shaft is less than 15 degrees. See red lines I noted in diagram below. If you rotate your pinion angle above parallel with a standard 2-joint shaft you will burn u-joints, vibe, etc.

Steve,
I still don't get the theory on this one... Why would getting the driveline more in line, cause MORE wear on the joints?


Rubi,
If you end up doing the Double CV shaft, I'd also look into eliminating that stupid harmonic flange as well... I believe Tom has a kit for that.

.

 

[beaker]

I was reading somewhere that smaller joints have greater angle capacity. A 1310 can flex about 5 degree's more than a 1350 joint.

Don't know it's accuracy but one web site indicated such.

 

[Rubie Nubie]

Apparently the 1310 can be milled out
to a greater degree....Hence more play....

 

[Rubi04TJ]

Dave, you can go with a engine lift but that might not solve the issue, like others here your best bet is a rear driveshaft. I suggest taking a look at HAD, or High Angle Driveline this is what most of the guys over at ROF are starting to lean towards, tends to be less problems with thier stuff. i believe thier site is highangledriveline.com

 

[Rubie Nubie]

thanks everybody, the old pan is back in for the time being til
I can get the neccasary funds and parts to "git er done"...right
Steve, the 101 reading was actually quite interesting, More to
it than meets da eye
Thanks for the help....