TJlongworth
Moderator
Unfortunately not, the rear ones will need to be cut and re-splined
Rear Steer on the cheap
- Thread starter TJlongworth
- Start date
50willysM38
Active member
If you ran a Dana 18 you could have had matching shafts front and rear
Red Rocker
Active member
Looking good
YJScrounge
Moderator
So this occurred to me while out driving after work; you are the only man I know striving for a smaller tube and larger hole.
firecracker_jk
New member
Nice work! I want a bridgeport
Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
TJlongworth
Moderator
Rear Steer update,
With the tube in the housing it was time to figure out what the total axle width was going to be. I would like to keep the axle the same as the front (64.25 ) The first step in this process was to purchase all the parts needed to build the c's, knuckle and hubs. The plan was to build everything for the outers and then measure from the back of the C, to the wheel mounting surface on the hub. Once assembled, this measurement was 11.75''
using a bearing race install puck with a line scribed in the center, I could easily mark where the tube needed to be cut off for each side. After a little flap wheel action the cut tubes were ready to have the outer assemblys slid on. With some precision hits with a mini sledge, the c's were set at 0 caster angle with the pinion up 5 degrees.
At this point, its now a waiting game.
- Diy 60 diff cover kit
- full hydro ram
- some parts from barnes 4wd
- wheel studs
- rotors
- calipers
And thenmeasure for axle shafts
With the tube in the housing it was time to figure out what the total axle width was going to be. I would like to keep the axle the same as the front (64.25 ) The first step in this process was to purchase all the parts needed to build the c's, knuckle and hubs. The plan was to build everything for the outers and then measure from the back of the C, to the wheel mounting surface on the hub. Once assembled, this measurement was 11.75''
using a bearing race install puck with a line scribed in the center, I could easily mark where the tube needed to be cut off for each side. After a little flap wheel action the cut tubes were ready to have the outer assemblys slid on. With some precision hits with a mini sledge, the c's were set at 0 caster angle with the pinion up 5 degrees.
At this point, its now a waiting game.
- Diy 60 diff cover kit
- full hydro ram
- some parts from barnes 4wd
- wheel studs
- rotors
- calipers
And thenmeasure for axle shafts
TJlongworth
Moderator
Pics
Sent from my motorola one 5G ace using Tapatalk
Sent from my motorola one 5G ace using Tapatalk
RedJeepster1
Active member
Badass! Because I don’t know anything about rear steer, I’m surprised you want to run zero castor? Is it just because you don’t care about it trying to return to center since it’s gonna be full hydro?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
JeepinMaxx
Active member
Nice work Tom! I don't really know how it works, but it looks great
Red Rocker
Active member
The pump looks like a snowplow pump
TJlongworth
Moderator
JeepinMaxx said:
Full hydraulic, hit a button and it turns, hit the other button it turns the opposite way
The pump is actually a power up, power down dump trailer pump
Jerry Stross
Member
Is there some sort of detent valve like on a log splitter that would could be set to return to center? The down side being you would have to hold it trough your turn but I don’t think that would be a big deal.
