Stroker Motors

MasterDrazhar

MasterDrazhar

New member
I'm thinking of building one and have read a few things.. this (http://www.ajeepthing.com/stroker-motor.html) site seems to have the most specific info so far.  But I don't understand allot of the formula junk.  And the Squish, Deck, and Dish stuff is beyond me.

I wish I could just find a "shopping list" and instruction sheet/manual    :mrgreen:
 
Thanks for the links I'll check them out.  I have a motor sitting in my garage I want to use for this.  And mine is leaking water into the oil, so I may do this very soon.
 
sean_cj7 said:
I heard they consume oil.
Click to expand...

Any idea WHY they would consume more oil?

Basically it's just a new crank and rods from what I'm reading and a new cam if you really want it to do what it's supposed to.
 
Probably ought to talk to cjron,I think he has done a couple. He also had some parts I think?
 
5.0 mustang V8

Same weight as 6, more HP stock, more torque stock and at a lower RPM.  Neither are so much higher that the stock drivetrain wouldn't be expected to live.

It's available, cheap and EFI.

Upgrades beyond stock 5.0 is much better than 4.0.

Chevy may have more available but its ~100 lbs heavier and bigger overall.  5.0 should cut it quite well stock and minor upgrades can make good improvements.
 
Don't forget Golen. They're just over the Mass border in New Hampshire, I believe. I've spoken to them on the phone and they are awesome to work with. He spent quite a while on the phone with me. They'll customize the build for you as well. Check out their site below.

The Golen 4.6 is what I'm looking at for the GC when it's 4.0 dies. Never heard any stories about the oil consumption thing. Maybe someone did an bad ring job when they reassembled their stroker engine.




http://www.golenengineservice.com/html/jeep_off-road.html
 
beaker

Only problem with the 5.0 is all the other $$ to make it work. For someone who has a 4.0 that is in need of a basic rebuild, the stroker option is not that much more $$ and all of the other items can be retained like the radiator, accessories and such. Making a 5.0 work in a new TJ is $$$ as you need to change a ton of other parts to get everything to work.
 
toyworx said:
beaker

Only problem with the 5.0 is all the other $$ to make it work. For someone who has a 4.0 that is in need of a basic rebuild, the stroker option is not that much more $$ and all of the other items can be retained like the radiator, accessories and such. Making a 5.0 work in a new TJ is $$$ as you need to change a ton of other parts to get everything to work.
Click to expand...

I've only rebuilt one engine but from that engine, I'd think $2000 would be a reasonable budget for rebuilding the engine.  I spent more but to get a good fully rebuilt engine (your pulling it apart, do the whole job, not half of it).  Between the parts and machining,  boring, valve job, custom pistons, new bearings, new cam etc.  It's not a $500 dollar job. 

You can do one much cheaper, but it's not going to be as reliable, smoke free, smooth running nor as powerful.

To do either job will be a lot of money and time.  Now emissions is another story, TJ's are OBD2 and thus any engine you put in needs OBD2 elecronics otherwise the emissions people will be all over you when they plug into the connector and find it not working (in CT, don't know other states).  Pre OBD2 YJ would be a better choice for a motor swap.

In my research, a supercharger from a buick park ave would probably be the best bet (eaton mp90).  A rising rate fuel pressure regulator should cover most EFI tweaking, some custom mounting brackets and tubing should work.  TJ might work, cherokee doesn't have enough room for the belt in front (atleast not without moving the cooling fans).  The superchargers have a self contained oil system, multiple mounting angles, sized for nearly the same size engine and are cheap on EBAY.  Though that opens a can of tuning worms.  Quirky engines don't work well on trails from what I've seen.
 
Yes, there will be time and money into either motor. As you pointed out, it's probably a $2000 job to do a stroker rebuild on a 4.0. The only point I was making is that there is $2000 worth of EXTRA's (let alone the actual motor) to put a 5.0 into a TJ. So if it were a choice between a $2000 stroker kit in the 4.0 and knowing that when you put the motor back in, everything will plug back into place, or $4000+ to do a 5.0 swap and HOPE that you can make everything work properly, i think i'd stick with the stroker.
 
I've done a couple swaps in cars (engine and / or transmission).  The parts are not cheap, but they don't cost that much.  As for hoping it will fit, your hoping the engine will run when your done.  Planning and measurements cover for a lot of hoping in the swap.  I've done both and the swaps were easier.  It does depend on what you feel your better at but me, swap all the way. 

Neither is cheap, but an engine swap is comparable to building an engine.  They both cost and both have issues.
 
Didn't mean that I would hope to get it running. I know it's gonna run. But getting everything in the Jeep to work as it does now is another story.

5.0 in a TJ:

B-Cool radiator: $635
Bellhousing: $300
Wire Harness: $425
Engine Mount Cradle: $300
Headers: $235
Hoses: $50

So thats $1945 and I don't have a motor yet, just the stuff to bolt it in. Still have to buy a motor, and I wouldn't DREAM of stuffing a used 5.0 in if you are going through the trouble of a swap. You'd be kicking yourself later when it starts spitting oil out of the rear main seal or something. Still need to fab an exhaust. Still need to get the ford power steering pump hooked to the TJ box, the ford A/C compressor to work with the Jeep A/C...and you still need to HOPE that you can get all the sensors and sending units to work with all the stock Jeep guages and warning lights.

This is a FAR cry from stuffing a carburated V-8 into an old school muscle car. Heck, if he had a CJ, i'd say go for the 5.0 swap ALL day. But he's got a really nice newer TJ with creature comforts, emmisions issues, and computer controls that he drives every day. Stroker motor will retain ALL of the factory equipment, no muss no fuss, for half (if not less than half) of a 5.0 swap, and can be made to run well within emmisions specs.
 
Hey Ron, I'm not taking it personally.  I'm just putting out an alternative to the stroker option.

Most of those items are the most expensive way to do it.  There are cheaper ways to do each one.  More work, but cheaper.  If your interested, pm me, I can go over options.

There are many ways to do a swap, cheap to big money and everything in between.  It all depends on how much money you want to spend.  Same with engines.  you can't sit there and say one is a lot cheaper than the other.  They are both as expensive as you make it.  I've done a computerized engine swap, took a little longer but not much.

As for swap or stroker,  That's really a preference for a type of work, either can be very expensive to quite cheap depending on how it's done.  Plus emissions is the biggest kicker.  If the computer gives an error code (stroker or swap), you fail emissions period. 
 
cjron said:
imo why spend the money on either? draz have you ever had a power issue on the trail? ive read posts you are regearing so thats more power to the wheels!
Click to expand...

That's the route I'm currently taking. I have one ton axles, extra weight from a full cage, and H1 military wheels with big heavy tires, but I'm still running my totally stock 4.0 with a cracked block.  :eek: There have only been one or two times when I've really needed more power.
A lot of it is in the gearing. I'm running 36" tires, 5.13 gears, with a stock NP231 transfer case, and soon to switching to a 3.8:1 transfer case.

I'm going to continue running that old engine until it starts to show signs of failure. At that point, I'll be replacing it with a 99k mile 4.0 with just a cam upgrade. Jeff, I read that your engine is leaking water into the oil. This is what mine was doing, and I thought it was a head gasket. I planed the head and replaced the gasket, but it still leaked almost a 1/2 gallon per day into the crank case.
As a last ditch effort, I used Bar's head gasket repair. It sealed the leak up, and it's been good ever since. Try it to buy yourself some time.
 
Ron, just a healthy debate over a few options. Don't think Beaker or I were on the offense, just getting two options out on the table in a healthy debate. And now Mark has a REAL cheap 3rd option!

Beaker, I agree. All the items I listed can be done cheaper (heck a few of them a LOT cheaper). But it comes down to time and tools. If you can take the truck off the road for a month, then yes, the items in question can be fabbed. Given it's a daily driver, it's more likely that you'd want to have a bolt in solution that you know will work (like the radiator for instance) and can be done in a few days instead of spending a whole day just fabbing the motor mounts.

For the record, i'm going with a swap my CJ instead of a stroker :wink:.  I also don't care if it takes me 6 months cause it's not my daily driver. :lol:
 
I wouldn't recommend either for a daily driver, stroker maybe need to do a full rebuild (boring the engine, new custom pistons, valve job etc.)  Still issues of tuning it.  It's not a mass airflow system so tuning and emissions come in.

 
Hesco http://jeepers.biz/  (the company that designed the Mopar MPI kit) has the cam, and mapping for the ECU all worked out as a turn key deal for the stroker. Get your parts, build the block and head, send them your ECU for a reflash and your done. All the sensors are factory, and it still retains all of the proper emisions as well as factory error code controls.
 
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