T-Case Stud extraction

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Bagel

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So today I got the RE 4.5" lift done in the front  :cool: and I went to go put my t-case drop kit in and had some issues... :cry:
I loosened up the bolt no problem took off the nut for the stud and then tried like hell to get the stud out...IT WON'T COME OUT...PB blaster, liquid wrench, map gas, and finally broke out the torches. Nothing would work. So now i have a stud with the treads stripped off and NO way of getting the damn thing off...HELP, somebody has to have a trick...Let me know.. 
Oh yeah then i broke the bolt off on the other side...can't wait to drill that out...

Bagel
 
That sure would make it real easy.
Weld all 4 or just the two studs?
Bagel
 
XJ, how new.

The last one I worked was newer and had a pressed in stud on one end, and a bolt on the other. The stud was pressed in... 

had to cut, drill and tap.
 
What year?  Dont cut them if you can get away with it.  My XJ is a 95 and it was a threaded stud.  One came off ok and the other took about 2 hours and we ended up welding a nut to it and use a breakerbar and a pipe.

Not sure welding new studs would be a good idea.
 
They are threaded studs.
One of mine was so stuck that it tore the insert right out. I ended up beleving the frame, and flush welding in a home made threaded insert.
 
I cut it flush, drilled it out, tapped it for a larger bolt. 7/16 fine thread works pretty good though you need to be pretty well centered as the hole you drill just cleans the threads out of the hole from the original bolt.
 
i'm gonna try cutting them flush and drilling them out. If that dosent work then i'll look at welding some new studs in place.
Thanks guys.
Bagel
 
this was a nightmare for me.  I tried ez outs and heating the studs but instead of coming out it snapped.  Then I had to heat it to red hot with a plasma cutter and drill it out.  it was not fun at all.  If you can help it keep the stud whole.


gluck
 
Nightmare is right. I spent another 3 hours Sat trying to get the thing dialed. Drilled out the snapped bolt a bit off center and well half of it is still in there. The stud that was stripped by the wonderfull vise grips i cut flush and counter bored a bit so i can weld a new stud in place. The one good bolt i need to get a new longer bolt and the other stud i will work on after i get two new studs welded in place. Unfortunately where I'm working on it i need to be able to move it so i need to make sure i had something holding it in place for moving it...

Seriously what a damn nightmare.. The Chrysler engineer who designed that setup should be beat to a bloody pulp...Better yet he should have to work on them for the of his life.... :evil:

And I'm really looking forward to the rear shackles..i think the same engineer designed those too...

Bagel
 
beaker said:
Why weld studs, tap the holes and use bolts.

Rear shackles.  Those are a joy.... NOT.

I agree. Drill and tap the holes to accept bolts. There will be a time where you will want to bring the crossmember back up. It's much easier with bolts. Another problem will be the stud ends will drag on rocks, and get peened over. You will be in the same boat all over again the next time a repair will be needed.

As far as the rear shackles, dill those holes in the pockets and keep soaking the threads like I showed you on my jeep.
 
Mark,

I did drill the holes(thanks) and have been spraying them for 2 weeks..I pray that they come out easily...
As far as the stud thing the only problem i have with the one bolt i already drilled out is that part of the bolt is still in there. and if i tap it then the original thread comes loose i'm srcrewed....This weekend i'm gonna try to get that thing out of there...Wish me luck.

Bagel
 
i think i drilled mine one step  bigger and tap the hole . there is a bit of meat


and yes i said tap the hole and a bit of meat
 
As most of you know the trucks done. Just wanted top update what i did on the t-case mess. After throwing a few ideas around and listening to DETOUR I finally decided to cut the studs flush and make some new 1" blocks out of steel. I drilled and tapped the blocks and welded them to the unibody. Then just gt some new bolts and WALA no more mess. I was so much easier than messing with the broken bolts. So i have a set of 1" drop block made from 7075 aluminum if anyone needs them. Also if anyone has any need for the steel jobbers let me know i made a print and would be pretty much willing to make um just a bit over the material cost.
Bagel.
 
great its nice to know the mess that i'm about to get into on mine. why the hell couldn't the idoit who designed these just have used two bolts, what that would have been too simple.
 
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