TJ Flares on a YJ Question

[yj-mike]

I read quite a few threads where people installed TJ fender flares on a YJ to get more wheel clearance. So I ordered a set of TJ Bushwackers to get that extra clearance. Held one of the rears up to the tub yesterday, and I noticed that it would require cutting into the wheel box and a body seam.

How does everyone handle this? Should I send them back to Q-Tec for the "TJ Style" flares for a YJ (that still require some cutting)?

Thanks,

Mike

 

[NomadJeep]

Read this along time ago, maybe it will help.

http://bigredheep.com/modules.php?name=ForumNews&id=3808

 

[JeepinMaxx]

Read this along time ago, maybe it will help.

http://bigredheep.com/modules.php?name=ForumNews&id=3808

Ditto- Nomad beat me to it :wink:

I have the same link saved because I have a set of TJ flares I'll be mounting on my YJ.

When you do the upgrade - please post pics and a write-up so we can all see how it came out. 

 

[garysoupy]

I bought the xenon extended TJ flares made for a YJ and didn't have to cut anything except the Warn rock sliders.

 

[jon]

but that means you don't get the additional clearance benefit out of the tj flares.

 

[garysoupy]

but that means you don't get the additional clearance benefit out of the tj flares.

True, but I get minimal tire rub with the set up I have. 4" spring under, 1-1/4" shackle lift and 2" body lift. 35" tires. They do stick out a little too far in the front. I bash the fenders on trees sometimes and rip out the screws on the flares. Tube fenders are next after I completely destroy these.

 

[yj-mike]

So here is how the sheetmetal looks after cutting for the rears:

If I lined up the front of the flare with the stock position as some suggested, the rear would be extending past where the rear corner starts to curve around. Also, the flare center would have been way off the axle center line. I couldn't cut any more steel on the front or I would have cut into the wheel box.

Also, here is a photo of the kid next the heep:

We decided to go with the Satin Stainless hinges, hood set, etc to go with the copper paint color we picked out. I did some calling around to powder coaters, and found Adco Services in Bloomfield that would coat the tube-style nerf bars for a reasonable price. Cost me $25, most other companies I called wanted $100. Mark at Adco was great to work with, and had a powder (P4 Glimmer) that almost exactly matched the Satin Stainless. I will be going to him in the future to get the bumpers (once I get them welded together), tailgate hinges (they don't seem to be available in Satin finish), and a few other items.

Adco's oven is 14' long, so he can do oversize items also.

Just thought I would put in a plug for a great guy running a great business,

Mike

 

[ctgranite]

hey yj-mike, there is alot of cutting... front and back. did mine this year. you maybe better off using stock tj flairs. i live in niantic area if you want to see how it looks. i run 35's with a soa and 1-1/2" re springs. no rubbing.