yj spring over

[graves14]

Im looking for any and all info i can get on doing a spring over conversion on a 89 yj. 

im looking to go up and am trying to look at all my options.  thanks

 

[pyagid]

what is your end goal?  There are A LOT of options and directions to go. If you tell us your goal, we could suggest some directions to head in

 

[toyworx]

First question is what axles are you planning on running? If you are sticking with the stock D30/D35 combo, then don't waste your time and $$ on a spring over.

Rear is not too bad. Time consuming, but not too bad.

CV rear drive shaft, New spring perches,U-Bolts, shock mounts and a traction bar. Set the rear axle under in the perches, snug but don't tighten the ubolts, set the pinion angle, weld the perches. Now set your traction bar in at the proper angles, weld that in, and the rest is like any lift. Extended brake line, set up the shocks where you want them, etc, etc.

Front is the hard part.

I have three words for you. Steering, steering and steering. What axle do you plan on running up front? Depending on what axle you are using up front, you could spend as little as $200 and as much as $800 just on the steering.

All in all, a properly set up spring over is usually about a $1500 project minimum (considering you need a $500 CV rear drive shaft setup), and can be upwards of $2000.

Have you thought about Skyjackers monolinear spring for the front? They are a few more $$, but it saves you big time on the steering expense. The one downside is clearence. They are obviously hanging low compared to a spring over setup.

 

[pyagid]

Have you thought about Skyjackers monolinear spring for the front? They are a few more $$, but it saves you big time on the steering expense. The one downside is clearence. They are obviously hanging low compared to a spring over setup.

i agree with everything you said, But why do you think steering for a 6" lift spring will be less than a 6" SOA with stock YJ springs?  Steering work would be about similiar



The reason I ask what the end goal is, Depending on what springs you use you could stretch your wheelbase, leave it stock, length, go up anywhere from 6" to 10" or more.  My personal felling is 10 is way to tall. especially at stock width, and height.  For example, Waggy springs will provide about 8"s total lift from a stock height jeep, you would have the choice to move your front and rear axle 2"s foward and back, or leave them in the stock location.  Plus the added length of the springs allows it to be a little flexier than a stock spring.

-Paul

 

[graves14]

good deal after reading all that i cant ell you taht SOA is not gonna be for me...  Im tossed between doing a 4" suspension or a 2.5" suspension and a 1" body. 

This is a dialy driver that i wheel on teh weekends...nothign huge just private properties mostly.  not relaly looking to go higher than 32-33's and i dont plan on changing my axles so itll probably be 32's.  I just want a little more capability.  id like to keep it under $700 because i dont have much more than taht to play with.

 

[pyagid]

2.5" suspension and 1" body you shoudl definitely be able to clear 32" tires, and will elimnate any need for a transfercase drop, or any added modifications

 

[jon]

Have you thought about Skyjackers monolinear spring for the front? They are a few more $$, but it saves you big time on the steering expense. The one downside is clearence. They are obviously hanging low compared to a spring over setup.

i agree with everything you said, But why do you think steering for a 6" lift spring will be less than a 6" SOA with stock YJ springs?  Steering work would be about similiar


-Paul

My experience is that many times you run into a collision situation between the spring and draglink with SOA, that you avoid with SUA.  but I know people who fixed this just by using a drop pitman arm

 

[ctgranite]

Like everybody said. It's a lot more work than just changing out springs. And IMO not a driveway job. You'll need a floor jack or two, jack stands, grinder, welder and lots  more stuff. (Like TIME)... I've done one with a reverse shackle in front, and with a hysteer. Bought chevy flat top knuckles, mill and drill the right side. Used axles from a 1986 grand wagoneer , dana 44's. SYE kit, drive shafts, shocks, tierod, drag link, springs and brake lines. There's more cost than a spring kit. But there's also a cool factor. If you want to see mine I live in Niantic. This is not meant to discourage you. Only FYI.

 

[NomadJeep]

Being I have a YJ, and cross this bridge all the time... here is what I would recommend.


Skip the Body Lift, the 11 bolts to pull it apart are usually frozen, and then the welded nuts inside the tub, which you cant get to end up turning because the welds break, then you have to spend $$ to get someone to cut open the channels to get to them.  Also the steering shaft is often frozen and wont come apart, and when you do a BL, it has to extend it an inch.  A BL on an older jeep is just not worth it...    you could be like me, who's dealer told me to put a 3" BL on because they would not warrantee my Jeep if I changed the suspension, but a BL was ok,,, now I have cracked mounting points all over the tub...  (fixed thanks to Detour)

A spring over is the best, and the end all, but it is a big cost when you add in steering, SYE, Driveshaft and upgrading out of the Dana 35.  If you are planning on spending $500 + then save and go spring over, (note: it will give you 5 inches with factory springs)

If you are planning on 2.5 inch of lift, just know that your leaf springs will sag, and end up with about 1" to 2"  (ask Detour)

If you go 3.5" you will have to lower the t-case or do the SYE,...  this will put you into my situation...  you will end up spending over $600 for kit, shocks etc... then you will end up doing a SYE because you will get annoyed with the T-case drop being you lifted it 3, but only gained 2"  Also, you will notice that other people are flexing all over the place, and you are not... (soa vs sua)

I would recommend keeping an eye out for a used 3.5 kit, (BDS or RE)  people get rid of them all the time when they go spring over.  Also, all you really need out of the kit is the leafs, and a good set of shackles.  You wont use most of the other crap in the kit...
You wont use the Track bar brackets being the rear you will never notice is missing, (everyone takes it out) and the front will limit you axle travel by 30% and you will find it is not a hug benefit with driving and often not noticed. (if you have good springs they will keep your axle nice and centered, and remember CJ did not have them) (however if you feel you need one, I have it)

Sway bar disco, well you may end up leaving the sway bar off, like most YJ people, but if not, the ones that come with the kits, (which most don’t) are crap anyway, so you will end up buying JKS Quicker Disconnects.

T-case drops, call me I have a few  :wink:

and drop pitman arms are not needed on the YJ, even though they give it to you...

So, find a used kit, buy some M.O.R.E. Boomerang shackles, cheap longer travel hydro shocks and discos if you like...

Also, you will be able to fit larger tires if you buy some TJ flairs on it, plasma cut the rear wheel well to TJ flair size, and you will be able to fit most tires.

If you have specific YJ questions, I have crossed every bridge, I have a lot of failures under my belt so I can tell you what not to do... :rotflmao:

Last thing, if you go with a cheap kit, you get a crappy ride, or a premature sagging leaf…

Bad Kidney lifts:
Rough Country
SkyJacker 3”
Superlift

Good Lifts for YJ’s
BDS
Rubicon Express
Old Man Emu
Black Diamond

 

[toyworx]

Have you thought about Skyjackers monolinear spring for the front? They are a few more $$, but it saves you big time on the steering expense. The one downside is clearence. They are obviously hanging low compared to a spring over setup.

i agree with everything you said, But why do you think steering for a 6" lift spring will be less than a 6" SOA with stock YJ springs?  Steering work would be about similiar


-Paul

My experience is that many times you run into a collision situation between the spring and draglink with SOA, that you avoid with SUA.   but I know people who fixed this just by using a drop pitman arm

What he said.

I run a shackle reversal (M.O.R.E) with YJ monolinears in the front of my CJ. Over 6" of total lift. Was able to get good steering angles by going to the Poison Spyder HD steering kit which moves the tierod and drag link to the top side of the knuckles. Add in an offset spacer to the heim joint on the axle and pitman arm end, and voila. You avoid having to do the highsteer knuckles because you don't have the spring collision angles. All for under $300.00. Now with the right tools out in the garage, you could build the same setup for half that (or less).

Back on topic.

32/33's on a YJ as simple as a set of TJ flares ($200 for a brand new set) and a little lift.

I ran 33/12.50's on my CJ for 2 years with a set of TJ flares (with the tub and fenders cut to match) and a 1" body lift.