Project Ten Ton

Angrytj said:
Congrats Paul.

We need some more daylight photos


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Hard to take photos during the day because I’m usually working on it during the day. It’s at night that I take it out and play with it. As soon as I get the skid plates fabricated and built I’ll be ready to take it out and do a test run. Hopefully sooner than later.
 
Paul said:
Angrytj said:
Congrats Paul.

We need some more daylight photos


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Hard to take photos during the day because I’m usually working on it during the day. It’s at night that I take it out and play with it. As soon as I get the skid plates fabricated and built I’ll be ready to take it out and do a test run. Hopefully sooner than later.
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No excuses just take better photos for us [emoji38]


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Well I just got kicked in the nuts again with this probject.  One of my ORE struts hydrolocked so I called Kurt over at ORE and turns out whether the struts are new and unused or used and abused the seals inside them begin to rot away around 3-5 years.  I just removed all 4 and have to send them in to be rebuilt at the low cost of 2k ish...... Needless to say I won't be taking this to Bobrika for the shake down run I was hoping for.  I will still go in jk but my goodness......I just can't win with this build.  It's been a shit show since day one but I will win.
 
Angrytj said:
Honestly I’d just sell them and get coilovers

ORIs suck


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Sure, why not? I sure he threw away his budget 6 months ago.

That's what I did at the end of my building at least.

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harryhood said:
Angrytj said:
Honestly I’d just sell them and get coilovers

ORIs suck


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Sure, why not? I sure he threw away his budget 6 months ago.

That's what I did at the end of my building at least.

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He can sell the ORIs and buy coilovers and break even vs spending $2k just to fix the ORIs


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Too late….Already paid for the shipping.  And yes… the build from hell????. I love and hate it. Believe it or not I am at my budget but not how I expected it to go lol. The JK cost more to build by 10k and that doesn’t include the stock vehicle cost or my recent rebuild. This is not a cheap or easy hobby.
 
What do you think those four shots would sell for after being completely rebuilt with all the new 2026 changes in parts? Is it a reality that when they come back after spending all that money I could actually get a decent amount? For me at this point I’m kind of thinking what’s the difference? Coil overs are cheaper, but are they as good? With the ORI struts it sounds like I have to do this rebuild every five years or so, which doesn’t sound overly exciting to me… It really only matters and is only worth it if they’re that good of a strut. Any thoughts?
 
Brand new they are like $1100 each!!

I would have sold them easily without spending the $2000 to repair them for $600-800 each

Could have bought brand new coilovers and actually made money.

Take it from someone who has run both.

Coilovers are far superior…

Packaging is harder and tuning is harder to ensure you get the proper spring rates and valving but accutune can help.


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Call up ori cancel your order and just pay for return shipping is my advice.

Spending $2k to fix them and then sell em is foolish in my opinion.


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It’s not funny but man do I learn the hard way…. So frustrating…. I do appreciate the advice but I already paid 185 to ship them. At this point it’s easier in both time and frustration to just wait my couple weeks and reinstall the rebuilt ori’s. I may change that up in the future but for now I just want to move on.
 
When you look at those shocks they look impressive quality pieces. For what they cost you'd think they'd offer to rebuild them for free! The seals shouldn't disintegrate in 5 years with no use, and charging $150+ ea. for a few simple seals is ridiculous!
 
giphy.gif



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Only one failed but I wasn’t going to send in just that one. The good thing is that I don’t have to deal with bump stops or tuning of coil overs. Kirk at ORI said every 3 to 5 years the seals start to fail, but I’d be willing to bet I could get more than that out of them. Even if I don’t, maybe I’ll Make changes at that point. I’ve decided not to buy metal for my skid plates and instead I’ve been using my old tractor bucket. It’s not coming out too badly lol. I’ve saved a few bucks anyway doing it this way. As far as timing goes I’m definitely Putting a lot more time into trying to reuse the bucket than buying the metal. It’s all the balancing act.
So far I have built and installed a skid plate under the bed portion toward the rear bumper using the bottom portion of the bucked. I figured this would be important to keep from hanging up all the time. I also cut out a few pieces for the undercarriage skid. It’s getting there…
 
ORI Struts should deliver to them today according to ups. I am knee deep into building skid plates for the Scrambler. I am using my old backhoe bucket for metal. I can promise it would be so much easier to just go buy new clean straight metal plates but I have accepted this challenge to help me with my fabrication skills. I live so isolated that I absolutely need the skills to make stuff out of other stuff. So we shall see.

My biggest obstacle is protecting the engine and transmission. The front driveshaft is so long and on the passenger side and the upper control arm link is on the driver side so almost no place at all to mount a secure skid plate bracket.  I’m spending lots of time just trying to get ideas. Non have worked yet but I might have a plan. I am going to start working on that today. I’ve finished the rear and transfer skids….the easy ones

Not sure anyone cares but it helps me to write all this down
 
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