Setting up your garage

Collar tie/rafter tie is basically the same thing so really we are arguing terminology because the element themselves act the same way.  The collar/rafter tie in this case, as long as it is within the top 1/3 of the vertical span of the rafter is in compression, so not having them at each rafter is a detriment to the rafters which don't have them.  They rely on the sheathing for stiffness but with the effects of creep and drying/shrinking they are showing signs of deflection below these ties.

Tldr:  putting in additional ties for the rafters is good

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I was going to say that its possible they could also be in tension.  My left brain is fighting my right brain

Edit, they are in compression.  The floor prevents the rafter tails from kicking out so the collar ties/rafter ties are in compression.

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collar and rafter ties should always be in tension.  if not your building is on the ground or about to be. 
 
So after some digging and modeling I found that the collar tie is in compression when you also use a floor joist/tension tie.  Note that the positive numbers mean compression in the member and negative means tension.  I have always wondered about this condition.
35eff975bfd8bf1de061f548c9229d90.jpg


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Bikerbar sushi said:
Does that model assume the weight of the structure
It does, but in this case it doesn't matter because I picked an arbitrary load to apply to the model to see which members are in tension or compression

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2ndgearhero said:
So after some digging and modeling I found that the collar tie is in compression when you also use a floor joist/tension tie.  Note that the positive numbers mean compression in the member and negative means tension.  I have always wondered about this condition.
35eff975bfd8bf1de061f548c9229d90.jpg


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So for reference, my garage roof has both the top and bottom horizontals from that picture. However only every 4th or so rafter has a vertical from the bottom corners of the top triangle down to the rafter. I’m planning to run those on every one. I try not to put too much weight up there in the rafters, but my spare driveshaft collection has gotten rather large...


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RedJeepster1 said:
2ndgearhero said:
So after some digging and modeling I found that the collar tie is in compression when you also use a floor joist/tension tie.  Note that the positive numbers mean compression in the member and negative means tension.  I have always wondered about this condition.
35eff975bfd8bf1de061f548c9229d90.jpg


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So for reference, my garage roof has both the top and bottom horizontals from that picture. However only every 4th or so rafter has a vertical from the bottom corners of the top triangle down to the rafter. I’m planning to run those on every one. I try not to put too much weight up there in the rafters, but my spare driveshaft collection has gotten rather large...


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If you send me dimensions and the member sizes, I can take a look at how you may want to reinforce because I was going to say that if youre planning on using the attic for storage you may want to beef up some framing from the pictures I saw earlier in the thread

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I recommend buying a panel lift, they are like $160, makes it so easy, then when done just sell it for what you paid, I have done this several times.
 
2ndgearhero said:
RedJeepster1 said:
2ndgearhero said:
So after some digging and modeling I found that the collar tie is in compression when you also use a floor joist/tension tie.  Note that the positive numbers mean compression in the member and negative means tension.  I have always wondered about this condition.
35eff975bfd8bf1de061f548c9229d90.jpg


Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

So for reference, my garage roof has both the top and bottom horizontals from that picture. However only every 4th or so rafter has a vertical from the bottom corners of the top triangle down to the rafter. I’m planning to run those on every one. I try not to put too much weight up there in the rafters, but my spare driveshaft collection has gotten rather large...


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If you send me dimensions and the member sizes, I can take a look at how you may want to reinforce because I was going to say that if youre planning on using the attic for storage you may want to beef up some framing from the pictures I saw earlier in the thread

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I’m curious what you mean by “beef up the framing” because I’m not removing them and replacing with bigger lumber, and I’m not going to sister up every beam. With the cost of lumber right now it’s not worth it. I’ll just remove weight from the attic instead.

I think the ceiling is gonna tell me when there’s too much weight up there, as it is now. I had too much stuff up there for the wedding and have since removed some of that weight. I plan to tie it into the trusses as best as is reasonable and then just be conscious of what I put up there. If This turned into major renovations, I’ve got different plans in mind....


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RedJeepster1 said:
2ndgearhero said:
RedJeepster1 said:
2ndgearhero said:
So after some digging and modeling I found that the collar tie is in compression when you also use a floor joist/tension tie.  Note that the positive numbers mean compression in the member and negative means tension.  I have always wondered about this condition.
35eff975bfd8bf1de061f548c9229d90.jpg


Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

So for reference, my garage roof has both the top and bottom horizontals from that picture. However only every 4th or so rafter has a vertical from the bottom corners of the top triangle down to the rafter. I’m planning to run those on every one. I try not to put too much weight up there in the rafters, but my spare driveshaft collection has gotten rather large...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
If you send me dimensions and the member sizes, I can take a look at how you may want to reinforce because I was going to say that if youre planning on using the attic for storage you may want to beef up some framing from the pictures I saw earlier in the thread

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk


I’m curious what you mean by “beef up the framing” because I’m not removing them and replacing with bigger lumber, and I’m not going to sister up every beam. With the cost of lumber right now it’s not worth it. I’ll just remove weight from the attic instead.

I think the ceiling is gonna tell me when there’s too much weight up there, as it is now. I had too much stuff up there for the wedding and have since removed some of that weight. I plan to tie it into the trusses as best as is reasonable and then just be conscious of what I put up there. If This turned into major renovations, I’ve got different plans in mind....


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So there is a million ways to skin this cat:  You wouldn't need to remove members or double things up to beef them up.  You could add additional vertical and diagonal members to make the roof a true truss system, this can be done with 2x4's and plywood for gusset plates.  The truss could be configured to accommodate for a space dedicated to storage as well.  Also, you wouldn't need to truss the entire roof, you can have a dedicated storage space for heavy objects.

Although this is not a guarantee to get you everything you are looking to get out of it, it costs nothing to evaluate things on paper to see if it would even be a benefit... alternatively, tarps are relatively inexpensive
 
I have a similar older garage that was sagging a bit before I finished the ceiling. My builder buddy built what he called a strong back - which is kind of a wall tying the ridge to the garage rafters the whole length of the garage. My garage is more of a salt box shape so the strong back isn’t right down the middle and inconveniently in the way. He said I could put whatever I want up there now. So I winched my air compressor up there so I don’t have to listen to it anymore. More room in the garage for Jeep stuff too! I also had to put Sheetrock - 5/8 I think by code because it’s attached to my house. That’s something else to think about. I sheet rocked the whole thing- not the most convenient for wall and ceiling hangings but cheap as materials go at the time
 
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