2000 XJ Run Issues

RedJeepster1

Active member
First off, sorry for the long post. Started looking into my run issue last night after the axles got picked up. Some info I have so far.

Jeep performs as normal when cold. No issues, you would think nothing was wrong. Run issue started to show up after driving a few miles when the vehicle is up to temp.

When accelerating, the Jeep will completely cut out, lose power, gauge cluster shuts down, check engine light clears, as if the battery was unhooked. This happens only for a split second, and then the vehicle comes back to life. It's fast enough that the engine never stops spinning. However, if often happens many times in a row. Jeep will cut out and catch itself 4-5 times until I change find a throttle position where it will keep running without cutting out.

Whatever is causing the issue is somehow related to the oil pressure sending unit. This is either a shared 5V or ground or something similar because the oil pressure sender no longer works. It is either the cause or was shorted as a result of the actual cause. Currently the gauge reads 10 psi whenever the key is on. Running or not, regardless of RPM. Typically this engine makes 50 psi cold and 20 at a hot idle. Engine is still quiet with no ticks or knocks, I don't suspect any sort of oil pressure issue, just a sensor issue.

This issue only happens when the vehicle is in gear. When I am in park, I can rev the engine as much as I want to any RPM or throttle position. It runs normally. Once in gear, it will cut out as described above.

What I have checked so far:

All my hot and ground wires appear to be tight and clean. Tonight I am going to remove them all and clean and reattach them anyway to be sure.

Wires going to oil pressure sensor still have sheathing on them and are are not rubbing anywhere that I can see. Tonight I will be pulling the sheathing back and doing a better check, as well as replacing the oil pressure sender with a spare from my parts Jeep.

The Jeep did throw an engine code multiple times but it was always instantly cleared before I was able to check it because the engine would die again so quickly afterwards.

Other info:

Jeep is charging and shows 14V when running

All battery cables are about 2 years old, 2 gauge with copper connections and marine terminals on the battery

Being a 2000 it's a coil pack motor, no distributor. Cam sensor is only a month or two old.

I don't know when the crank sensor was last replaced. I know they typically go when hot. I need to check if the crank sensor is on the same circuit as the oil pressure sending unit.

When running, all other gauges work other than the oil pressure which reads 10 psi.

Anyone have thoughts on what I should look into first? I have literally a Jeep load of spare parts and sensors at the house (literally an XJ loaded with 2 or 3 XJ's worth of spare parts) so I plan to do some swapping of sensors tonight to see if any of that will make a difference.Just didn't have time to dig into it last night. 
 
You can check the cluster by holding down the trip reset button and turning the key to the run position, keep holding the trip button till you see the 8's running across the odometer, it'll run through a cluster test.  That'll at least tell you if it's just the gauge or if you have an actual problem...

The cluster will run through various tests one at a time, lighting all the indicators then working each gauge in turn.

the oil pressure gauge should run to 4 positions then return to zero, if not the gauge is not working properly.


I have no suggestions for the rest...,  :razz:

 
The Alan said:
Don't these have the harness rub at the back of the valve cover

There is a lot of wiring harness running across the firewall right at the back of the valve cover. I don't think the stock clips are there so it's probably hanging down some. I'll look into that after work today.
 
MasterDrazhar said:
You can check the cluster by holding down the trip reset button and turning the key to the run position, keep holding the trip button till you see the 8's running across the odometer, it'll run through a cluster test.  That'll at least tell you if it's just the gauge or if you have an actual problem...

The cluster will run through various tests one at a time, lighting all the indicators then working each gauge in turn.

the oil pressure gauge should run to 4 positions then return to zero, if not the gauge is not working properly.


I have no suggestions for the rest...,  :razz:

So far it appears that the cluster is working properly, but I'll let it do a self check this afternoon.
 
RedJeepster1 said:
The Alan said:
Don't these have the harness rub at the back of the valve cover

There is a lot of wiring harness running across the firewall right at the back of the valve cover. I don't think the stock clips are there so it's probably hanging down some. I'll look into that after work today.
  not sure on this year but there is a stud at the back of the head that the harness rub on causing problem simular to what you describe
 
I honestly don't know what to say, but for what it's worth, the WJ did exactly what you described in the first paragraph. I changed the CPS first. Then the cam PS. In the end it was the PCM. Does a scan tool connect and be happy? In my case it did not.
It acted like there was nothing there,... brainless. Turns out it was....lol
 
The Alan said:
RedJeepster1 said:
The Alan said:
Don't these have the harness rub at the back of the valve cover

There is a lot of wiring harness running across the firewall right at the back of the valve cover. I don't think the stock clips are there so it's probably hanging down some. I'll look into that after work today.
  not sure on this year but there is a stud at the back of the head that the harness rub on causing problem simular to what you describe

The harness is supposed to be (he said his clips are gone) tied up on top of that little "ledge" on the firewall.
 
Wanted to report back on this after fixing it this weekend. It turned out that all these issues were somehow related to the oil pressure sensor going bad. Saturday morning I swapped out my oil pressure sensor with the one off my parts Jeep, and everything went back to normal. I've put about 300 miles on it since Saturday and it's been great. Not completely sure how that sensor was causing all these issues, but I'm glad that it's back to normal.
 
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