98 TJ Build from stock to finish and the futile pursuit of finality

[stan98TJ]

Ok, so I figured I'd post up my build thread. Thought about putting it on the members only side, but I figured it wouldn't hurt to have it on the public side for the the newbies who may be looking to take their stockers a step further. I've learned a lot from other build threads, and I hope I can give back with my little build.
Not sure how the moderators and admins feel about it, but I think it would be nice to have a member's build thread tab on here in the future.

1998 2.5l, 3spd automatic.
The Jeep as she stands today, March 2013:

How she was when I got her in 2007:

So here goes:
I got the Jeep in 2007. I was in school in the Bronx, didn't need a vehicle. Took a semester off and was living with my GF and needed a 4wd vehicle for the winter. I spot a black 94 Range Rover, lifted, rear locker and on 35s on autotrader. Guy was asking $1000.00 more than I had, started talking to him and just became fanatic about that truck. I scraped what I could and gave him a call back-about 3 or 4 weeks after I first had seen it...he had sold it.

Snow was coming and I needed a vehicle as sharing the gf's car was becoming an issue with getting us both to work. I see a green 97 4.0l at a dealership, 80k on the clock, hard top and soft, 31s for a fair price. I call them up and set up an appointment to see the vehicle the following week. The dealership was an hour and a half drive. A few days before the appointment the GF suddenly can't let me borrow the car to get over there as she SUDDENLY needs it, basically tells me it's a real far drive to go see a vehicle, i should be more considerate and look for one closer...her mom in all her GREAT wisdom finds me a jeep 10 min away from our house. 98 4 banger, 31s, auto, 84k on the clock, private sale. I shell out nearly all my meager college student savings to the owner. 4 days later the motor blows up. That was 2007, and a ton more work and $$ has gone into it. As I write this, I remember the last failure the Jeep had merely a month ago in the form of a grenaded t-case... I still haven't forgiven my now Fiance, nor her mother

I'm gonna speak quickly about the blown motor and eventual motor swap.
Basically, the first sign of trouble came in the form of inability to start the Jeep w/o laying on the gas. I had driven the Jeep prior to purchase and had seen the owner start it, but it was already warm and I didn't see him pressing the gas down. We figured it needed a tune up, so we swapped distributor, plugs, wires etc. I find these E3 Plugs at Autozone and read some caption under the ad about them saving a ton on gas and blah blah blah. I buy into the crap and purchase the plugs. 4 days later I have my first detonation. Took the head off and find the #2 piston had a 45 cal size bullet hole dead center burned into it. From what we understood after inpecting: jeep actually had a crack in the head and required more fuel to start, when combined with the hotter E3 plugs, all that fuel caused a detonation.

I contacted Clearwater Cylinder Heads in FL and bought a new head. Great company, by the way and totally recommend them. Unfortunately the detonation had compromised more than just the piston. Coolant leaked down through and killed my oil pump and 60 miles later on my way home from school-wait for it...IN a SNOW STORM...a loud metallic, machine gun sound coming from under the hood informed me that I was about to have a real bad day. 2 pistons completely blown apart, a third partially broken, metal chunks in the oil pan. Clearwater took the head back and refunded me 100% although their head was not at fault. I didn't have the money for a 6cyl upgrade, so I purchased another 4 banger long block, rebuilt, from Washington. My fiance's father showed incredible patience and helped swap the engine with me. I knew ABSOLUTELY NOTHING at the time. Baptism by fire. He showed great patience...

 

[brian]

Not trying to pick on you but after reading your thread I still have no idea what you did to build your jeep. To me a build thread should look like this.


Model Jeep: Wrangler Sport

Color: Chili Pepper Red
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0L
Trans: Manual (AX-15)
Transfer Case: NP231
Front Axle: Dana 30, 4.88s open
Rear Axle: Dana 44, 4.88s spooled

Lift: 5", OME 4" coils, 1" Performance Access.  Body Lift, RE Monotube Shocks, RE Adj. Upper & Lowers Control Arms, Clayton Adj. Front Track Bar, Teraflex Adj. Rear Track Bar
Rims: 15x8 Rock Crawlers Series 51, 3.75" Back space
Tires: Cooper Discover STT  35x12.5

Protection: Detours Rock Sliders, Detours Custom Rear Bumper w/Tire Carrier, Rusty's Diff Guard - Front, Rear, Skid Row Gas Tank Skid, Teraflex Oil Pan Skid, Poison Spyder Brawler Bumper, Smittybilt Flat Fenders, Solid Rear Diff Cover.

Miscellaneous: Tom Woods Custom Drive Shaft,  Advanced Adapters SYE,  JKS Quicker Disconnects,  Cobra 75WXST CB, Chevs of the 40s LED Headlights, Warn M8000 Winch,  Shine Front Diff. Cover.

 

[stan98TJ]

first time off roading. Upstate NY. Jeep basically stock except for the 31s. Had a fantastic time. It's my buddy's (pictured right) parent's property.

Shortly after, I installed an AEM Cold Air Intake unit and that actually helped a bit in the power department and gained me 1, maybe 2 mpg. I also swapped in a 62mm throttle body and spacer at that time too.

At this point I was headed down a road I wish I hadn't gone down. Given my inexperience, I was buying into all these HP/torque/MPG gizmos and spent a bunch of money on crap that didn't work. The inake helped a minute amount, the TB seemed to position the tube in a better position and took in more air, but the gains-if any-were minimal at best. My next purchase was a Dynomax Super Turbo cat-back muffler. All loud, no gain. The drone was unbareable and this proved to be a total waste of money. The exhaust rusted bad within a year of purchase.
Video of the Dynomax:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5L6tAxM94s


Soon after, I began wheeling on LI with built up Jeeps. I decided I needed a lift. I was in college and didn't have much cash to spare. I began researching for a good, complete kit that was within budget. I had read enough about Skyjacker and similar budget boost kits to know I didn't want that. I came across Rough Country's 2.5" kit. A little more research unveiled their rough-no pun intended- history. However, the kit was affordable -$275- and included new 2.2 shocks, progressive springs and a t-case drop. Reviews for the kit were pretty good. Jeepforum at the time had something like a 40+ page on going thread about the kit with a majority of good reviews. I eventually had to install bar-pin eliminators as the flimsy dog bone ends on the shocks rusted through and broke off.
A note about the t-case drop:
The kit came with it. My buddies helping me with the install told me that at 2.5" I probably wouldn't need it. I eventually blew a drive shaft. Turned out the angles were off just so and the t-case drop brought it all to spec. Lesson learned.

Next to my friend's TJ- she's on stock suspension and 31 ATs. I had my 31 MT Definity and RC 2.5" kit.

Very cold start up with Dynomax and RC lift:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uc-KlBSzOw4

Decided it was time to get rid of the Dynomax exhaust in exchange for a Banks Monster exhaust cat back and header. People seemed to have been pretty happy with the Banks setup. I did later find there to be a handful of folks who complained of the header cracking. Mine cracked twice-most recently in August- but was always replaced at no cost. The gains as I look back on it, were minimal at best. The exhaust, although much quieter than the Dynomax, still has a bit of an annoying drone, is still a bit too loud and the headers didn't really gain me much if anything. I think the 4banger just revs too high and at that higher RPM it produces a bit of an annoying whine in comparison to the 4.0 which sounds pretty good when paired with this system.

video of the banks exhaust
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Zb7pKGtPgM

 

[stan98TJ]

Not trying to pick on you but after reading your thread I still have no idea what you did to build your jeep. To me a build thread should look like this.


Model Jeep: Wrangler Sport

Color: Chili Pepper Red
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0L
Trans: Manual (AX-15)
Transfer Case: NP231
Front Axle: Dana 30, 4.88s open
Rear Axle: Dana 44, 4.88s spooled

Lift: 5", OME 4" coils, 1" Performance Access.  Body Lift, RE Monotube Shocks, RE Adj. Upper & Lowers Control Arms, Clayton Adj. Front Track Bar, Teraflex Adj. Rear Track Bar
Rims: 15x8 Rock Crawlers Series 51, 3.75" Back space
Tires: Cooper Discover STT  35x12.5

Protection: Detours Rock Sliders, Detours Custom Rear Bumper w/Tire Carrier, Rusty's Diff Guard - Front, Rear, Skid Row Gas Tank Skid, Teraflex Oil Pan Skid, Poison Spyder Brawler Bumper, Smittybilt Flat Fenders, Solid Rear Diff Cover.

Miscellaneous: Tom Woods Custom Drive Shaft,  Advanced Adapters SYE,  JKS Quicker Disconnects,  Cobra 75WXST CB, Chevs of the 40s LED Headlights, Warn M8000 Winch,  Shine Front Diff. Cover.

I was writing it as I was trying to look for pics of all the stuff i did along the years. more to come. My jeep didn't stay at 31s and RC lift.

 

[stan98TJ]

Fast fwd a few years. Got out of school. Went out to sea and came home with a bit of cash to burn.
Jeep was a DD and still is. I was looking to upgrade my worn out Definities. Those Pepboy tires did pretty well. Handled the mud and easier trails. Not bad on the road and lasted a good while. I was looking to go to 33s. Pepboy went through all the different sizes they had in 33 and one of them was close to 33x11.5. Unfortunately they were out of those. I went to Townfare and they proposed Toyos. I did a bit of research and they seemed to have a good rep. I ordered them in a 16" wheel.

I also upgraded the steering stabilizer to Rough Country's beefy stabiizer AND also decided to get an aftermarket diff cover as well. I searched for a while and came across Solid Axle works Dana 30 cover. Had good reviews and was far cheaper than the other covers. At 64 bucks I really couldnt pass it up. I also decided to give it a black and red paint job. I've had nothing but good things to say about my Solid. It has taken a couple good shots and stood up to it no problem. I did purchase a "reusable" Lube Locker (i think that was the name) gasket for the cover. Waste of money. RTV for me next time. It's not that it leaks or anything, it's just the fact that it's expensive AND I dont think very reusable.

New front stabilizer and Solid Diff cover:

In order to get some better clearance for the 33s I decided to upgrade to the RC 3.25" kit. The kit basically is the 2.5" but with coil spacers at the top and a rear track bar relocator bracket. The kit also provides quick discos which can be seen in the above pics.

Trackbar relocator:

At this point I decided I wanted to protect my rockers. We had just found a nice and challenging trail local to me where rock contact was a good possibility if you weren't careful. I researched a bunch of different ones and for a while had settled on the A to Z Fab rocker and others styled that way. Basically they have a guard that covers the entire rocker panel (where my diamond plate panel is) and have a tube coming off from there. I decided I def wanted a tube so as to act as a step (my gf is short) but not lose clearance. Further research advised me to make sure I didnt cheap out with this style rocker guard as cheaper versions were known to bend at the rail/tube and fold up and into the tub thereby causing damage. A to Z was a bit out of my price range and for a bit I considered the Rough COuntry sliders but their rail was stucked too close to the body not providing enough area for one to use it as a step. I setlled on the BodyArmor Rails i found through research. I think they were $220. First time back out on the trail I actually came down on them coming off a rock and they held up beautifully. I like how they work and like the way they look.

BodyArmor Rock Rails:

 

[stan98TJ]

A few trips on the trail proved that the 3.25" kit wasn't quite tall enough for the tires. I ordered a Terraflex 1" Body lift. Around this time my gf offered me a winch of my chosing (under a grand) for my bday. I chose the Warn VR 10,000 and have been very satisfied. I felt that model best filled the requirements I needed, provided more than adequate power and Warn reliability behind it. The winch i knew would weigh down my front end. So I decided to go with RC's 6cyl springs and a leveler spacer. Now, the RC kit has stood up to daily driving and a good amount of off road time. It doesn't give you a Caddy ride on the road like the much more expensive kits do, but it got the job done. THe price is what was great about these kits. I was however thinking about changing out the RC kit at this time. Money wasn't right so I had to stick with it a bit longer. At the 2.5" level, I found that RC delivered as expected, however given the lower quality of the overall product I was not comfortable trusting their other larger and more involved kits. I had read a good amount of poor reviews in reference to those larger kits. However, there were def more than a few die hard RC fans out ther who liked their products. Like I said, my kit cost me under 300 bucks and when I was done with it, it didn't owe me a dime.

The new winch:

Before and after profile of Jeep with and without the 1" Body lift:
Before:

After: Notice the gap between the body and rai. It did bother me for a bit but now I've gotten used to it:

I then relined my tub with Herculiner. THe first bedliner I ever put down was a few years back and I used Rustoleum's roll-on EZ Bed liner. That was not good for the application. Way too thin. Im not even sure how they get away calling it a bed liner. it's more like thick paint. So I rolled on a coat of Herculiner right over it. My lack of mats, however allow my feet to contact the Herculiner directly, and if I've tracked in any dirt or sand, my foot's movement gradually grinds/sands the herculiner down useing the dirt as a makeshift sandpaper. So I lined it again and am looking for a good set of rubber mats.

 

[stan98TJ]

December 2011.
It was time to make the first big jump for the Jeep. The project included a regear to 4.56, Ford 8.8 rear axle and an Eaton e-locker for the front axle.
The 8.8 came from a junk yard in New Milford and cost about $160 bucks. Going rate at the time was around 150, although I had run into a few folks who had bought theirs for as low as $110. The axle was sourced from a 98 Ford explorer and came with disk brakes, open diffs.

Ordered the Eaton from Quadratec. Basically decided I wanted a selectable locker, but didn't want to cough up the ARB cash. Eaton had a good amount of reviews. I've been quite happy with it.

East Coast Gear Supply handled the rest of the order: http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/
Dana 30 4.56 gears (Motive) and master overhaul kit
Ford 8.8 4.56 gears (Motive) and master overhaul kit
8.8 braket kit for conversion to TJ
Crossover flange 8.8
8.8 axle seals.
SOLID Axle works diff cover for the 8.8 (to match the Dana 30)

I first intended to only purchase rear upper adjustable control arms, but then as we got into the build, I decided to swap all my control arms out. My buddy Dom (HuLud44) suggested I give Ironman 4x4 Fab out of NC a try. He ran their arms and trac bars for a while-still has the front arms I believe- and beat on them pretty freaking hard. My rears were ordered with the standard bushings, my fronts have Johnny Joints all around.

Andy, owner of Ironman, has some of the BEST customer service out there. He runs a small shop in NC. The arms are all made upon order. Andy will go above and beyond to make sure you get what you ask for. His business number goes straight to his cell phone, which he answers regardless of the time. I found that out the first time I called, expecting IronMan to be a large, west coast company with some sort of automated service, I called around 10 pm and pretty much woke him up. I was pretty embarassed, but Andy was polite as hell and took my order down.
The arms are quite thick, very adjustable and have doubled as skid plates on more than one occasion. I'm more than satisfied.
http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/index.html

Pair of the rear IronMan arms. Poly bushings, to be replaced with JJs once i wear them out.

 

[stan98TJ]

The 8.8 the day I got it:

James (saharacon87) taking out the c-clips. Gutting the diff to get it ready for the regear:

Removing the brake dust cover/backing. Then grinding the backing off. Mine were bent to begin with and after asking around many ppl run the axle without it as they find it traps more garbage then keep out

Bruce doing a little painting while James does a little cutting. Is this an OSHA violation?

A look at some of the parts:

Bruce finished painting the SOLID diff cover:

We took both front and rear axle to James' friend, Justin and had him gear them up. He took the axles on a Friday night and was done basically by Sunday.

Dust cover cut:

James and I bought an Ingersoll Rand 27 gal compressor to help with the build:

First impressions: we opened up the box and noticed a bit of oil smeared about the packaging and on the pump motor. We didn't think anything of it and went ahead to set up. When we fired it up, I was first surprised by how quiet the thing was. We had a slight issue with a bleeder valve mounted on the side which stuck open due to a piece of gasket that had wedged itself and kept the valve spring open. That was a simple fix. We used it for about 5 hrs and then called it quits for the night. When we returned the following day to continue work, we again used the compressor but noticed it clicking to start as we drew on air, but then stopping. We continued to use the air in the tank and noticed the pump not turning on to replenish the tank. We then figured something may be wrong and tried to get the compressor to start and all it would do was try and turn over for a few seconds and then stop. We tried different outlets and still couldnt get it to turn over. We checked the oil level and noticed it was a bit low, esp after we had just filled it to the line the previous day. I poured the remaining bit of oil left over from the bottle provided with the compressor and still couldn't get the thing to start. We contacted Sears and of course this was the very last model in the greater CT area and the rest were all at the warehouse in PA. There was however a floor model that we saw the previous day, but Sears refused to let us swap for that one. Instead, they offered to trade for their Craftsman brand 27g or 60g compressor. A quick google search returned very poor reviews for the Craftsman brand compressors, the irony being that Ingersoll returned tons of fantastic reviews. Sears informed us that they could only get one shipped to the store by the end of the month, and they would give us a discount, however we had to come and drive the 30 min to the store to pick it up. If we wanted it shipped to us, we could order it online which would arrive by the end of the month, but we would have to pay for shipping and no discount. Fantastic. We asked if we could have them deliver it from the store to us, and that was met with great resistance and vague shipping quotes of $80-100 in which the compressor would be shipped by some guy named Kevin. Great. So, we decided we would once again have to borrow a truck and take the 30 min trip down to Sears for the new Ingersoll when it arrived.

 

[stan98TJ]

Front axle removal:

Shock removal:

Brakes and driveshaft removal:

At this point we needed to remove the control arms. This was going well until we reached the driver side and of course the blot was obstructed by the differential. Thanks, Jeep!

James had extra bolts so that one was just cut off.

Once the control arms are free and the brakes are off and steering removed the axle is ready to be removed. Use a jack, go slow, it helps to have people on either end to help guide it:

Hubs needed to come off. It would have been easier to have just removed them using a socket pressed against the hub and a turn of the wheel. We did it the hard way, however with a hammer, beer and a lot of swearing.

 

[JeepMM2]

Not trying to pick on you but after reading your thread I still have no idea what you did to build your jeep. To me a build thread should look like this.


Model Jeep: Wrangler Sport

Color: Chili Pepper Red
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0L
Trans: Manual (AX-15)
Transfer Case: NP231
Front Axle: Dana 30, 4.88s open
Rear Axle: Dana 44, 4.88s spooled

Lift: 5", OME 4" coils, 1" Performance Access.  Body Lift, RE Monotube Shocks, RE Adj. Upper & Lowers Control Arms, Clayton Adj. Front Track Bar, Teraflex Adj. Rear Track Bar
Rims: 15x8 Rock Crawlers Series 51, 3.75" Back space
Tires: Cooper Discover STT  35x12.5

Protection: Detours Rock Sliders, Detours Custom Rear Bumper w/Tire Carrier, Rusty's Diff Guard - Front, Rear, Skid Row Gas Tank Skid, Teraflex Oil Pan Skid, Poison Spyder Brawler Bumper, Smittybilt Flat Fenders, Solid Rear Diff Cover.

Miscellaneous: Tom Woods Custom Drive Shaft,  Advanced Adapters SYE,  JKS Quicker Disconnects,  Cobra 75WXST CB, Chevs of the 40s LED Headlights, Warn M8000 Winch,  Shine Front Diff. Cover.

In my opinion, you should post up your specs like in the example Brian provided. All the details on how you arrived at those specs should be made into a document file.

 

[massxj]

Its his thread.

 

[clean4drxj]

I don't know if you mention it but running the stock trackbar/tre is subpar for anything over 31's and street driving.

 

[WickedWrangler15]

Personally I would like to know why it is a jeep and not upside down nor dented to hell. Great dissatisfaction thus far due to that.

RM

 

[stan98TJ]

I don't know if you mention it but running the stock trackbar/tre is subpar for anything over 31's and street driving.

patience, patience. It's all back log and I'm including all the parts I had installed, even the ones that were subpar.

 

[stan98TJ]

Personally I would like to know why it is a jeep and not upside down nor dented to hell. Great dissatisfaction thus far due to that.

RM

Easy there killer, superior driving keeps all 4 on the floor

 

[stan98TJ]

December 2011 was frigid as all hell. My heater blower motor and resistor decided to crap out on me and give me my first taste of what AC may feel like if it had come with the Jeep.

Basic, standard symptoms. No heat (obviously), the motor only runs on high etc. I replaced the motor without checking the resistor because I didn't know about the fact the resistor doesn't come into play at the highest fan speed. I replaced the fan and basically ran it through the speeds and called it good. Put it on level 2 and went for a drive and a few min later smelled smoke. Guess I shoulda checked the resistor.

This is what it looked like when I pulled it out, complete with a block of dirty ice in it. Have no clue how that ice/mud got in there.

For those who don't know where it's located, it's under the passenger side of the dash on a TJ and probably the same for an XJ-could be wrong.

Got that buttoned up and was able to get back to prepping the rear axle and getting the front axle back in.

A look at the Eaton E-Locker Justin installed for me along with my gears.

A little silicone to seal where the hole for the wire was drilled:

Lining up the front

Almost set, RC springs/shocks back in, a look at the new front IronMan control arm, this eventually became the rear arm as I decided to upgrade to do all my arms and go with Johnny Joints all around the front arms a week later.

James showing his artistic talent. I recently saw that Clayton's JK had a SOLID painted the same way...prob ripped that from me

Cutting off the bracketry, mounts, perches etc from the 8.8:

Welding the 8.8 axle tubes. First time welding, weren't the prettiest welds, but it worked out. Got the new brackets and spring perch on. Around this time, we were working on the axle little by little, late at night and in the bitter cold. James and I couldn't agree on some of the bracket measurements. I think the lower one was the one we really couldn't agree on. Ended up cutting it 2 or 3 times. I needed to get back to work soon, so we cut our loses and I took the axle to CT Axle to have Pete finish the brackets and swap the axle in. Lesson learned, don't wait til the last min to undertake a project you've never done before. Oh, and working in an unheated garage in the dead of winter at night sucks... a lot

 

[clean4drxj]

Gotcha, I know it takes time n money to get it where it needs to be!  I have a great suggestion to keeping your frame rust free and it's this stuff.. http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html, I know people who've used it with good results thus far.

 

[ct67_72]

Looking good man. Thanks for keeping it in the public side for us non-member newbies  :mad02:

 

[stan98TJ]

First impressions of the new system. Flexed/articulated a bit better with johnny joints on the arms. Front Locker made a huge difference. I went with Eaton because of their reputation and the selectability. I admit, the ARB is a bit stronger, but the extra cost wasn't worth it for me given I never intend to run a size tire that would compromise the Eaton's strength. I do lose out on the convenience of not having to drive to a gas station to air up, but I could always install an air compressor later. We did have a slight hang up when wiring the locker. The plug they provided was somehow a bit too thick and didn't allow the wires to contact one another, which wouldn't allow the locker to activate. Took us a while to figure that out. Ended up cutting the plug out, soldering the wires together and heat shrinking. Locker engaged and disengaged perfectly from then on. Later I would suffer a severed line while out on a trail, which also blew the in-line fuse. Decided to run the wiring along the upper control arm and protected it as well as I could. Hasn't been an issue since. Though, I wheel with electrical tape and a few more fuses now.

Testing out the new locker:

Prior to heading out to sea, I hit the trail one more time and struck a rock with my tie rod and put a nice St. Louis arch in it. Thought briefly about upgrading to a ZJ rod as my buddy James had, but work was calling and I didn't have time to make a decision then. 4 months on a ship gives you plenty of time to think things over, so I called my buddy at IronMan Fab 4x4 and Andy suggested the Currie correctlync system paired with IronMan's extreme duty aluminum tie-rod.
Details of this setup can be found on the bottom of this page: http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Products/TRS.html

While I was in the money spending mood I decided to buy an SYE Andy had laying around his shop.

I had been planning on changing out my suspension for a while before I left. The Rough Country 2.2 shocks had worn out in about 2 years. The ride quality had never been all that great, but by the 4th year they were sending shock waves up my spine within an hour on the trail. The springs had all been swapped out and changed for the 6cyl model springs-the fronts because they had sagged so much due to the winch, the rears because they just sagged naturally-one side more than the other. Even with the stiffer 6cyl springs up front, applying even light amount of weight to the front end would plunge it down a good deal.

I did some research and found a company called DPG Offroad.
http://dpgoffroad.com/products/old-man-emu-super-ultimate-tjlj-wrangler-kit/

They specialize in Old Man Emu suspension kits, the goal being low center of gravity setups. I basically chose the super ultimate kit without the control arms, disconnects, or the body lift as I already had those. The kit came with JKS trac bars, OME 4" nitro shocks and 2" OME springs, extended brake lines, extended rear links, and JKS MML.

I got the SYE installed at Mild to Wild. Rocco ordered me a driveshaft from a local place.  James and I installed the suspension 2 days after I came home as we had a trip to Rausch Creek planned that week. All the effort proved futile as the jeep spit out her power steering pump on the halfway up to Rausch...I hadn't been home in 4 months, she missed me
I transferred all my stuff to James' jeep and left my jeep in the care of a local shop and continued off to Rausch.

old vs new

 

[WickedWrangler15]

Personally I would like to know why it is a jeep and not upside down nor dented to hell. Great dissatisfaction thus far due to that.

RM

Easy there killer, superior driving keeps all 4 on the floor

One on the floor keeps 4 in the air with additional superior driving.


See what I did there?

RM